Forget Quiet Luxury—This Is Fall Fashion at Its Most Exuberant

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Photographed by Theo Liu and styled by global contributing fashion editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, this portfolio was first imagined as a tribute to the glamorous rebellion (or, perhaps, rebellious glamour) of the late Vivienne Westwood, and her wonderfully off-kilter clothes. In the end, however, the story mingled Westwood’s roguish aesthetic sensibility with a whirlwind tour of Tokyo—a place where the designer’s most provocative work has resonated for decades—starring a jolly band of models, chefs, floral artists, bonsai masters, musicians, and content creators.
To Karefa-Johnson, in a year like 2023, there is something inherently subversive about out-and-out beauty. “As we enter a period of fiscal conservatism in the face of recession, as we approach elections globally that challenge human and civil rights, and with war in Europe and natural catastrophes all over,” she says, “fashion has a distinct opportunity, maybe even responsibility, to act as a vehicle for liberation and beauty and art and fantasy—all while reflecting the world we live in.” 
So, forget—for a moment, at least—quiet luxury, and submit to a full-throttle love affair with fall fashion at its most delightfully, and defiantly, exuberant. Locations from Shibuya up to Taitō set the scene.
GOING GOING… Foreground from left Rapper Ryugo Ishida wears Burberry us.burberry.com. At his side rapper NENE wears an...

GOING, GOING…
Foreground, from left: Rapper Ryugo Ishida wears Burberry; us.burberry.com. At his side, rapper NENE wears an Akikoaoki top; store.akikoaoki.com. Both wear R13 boots. Model Lala Takahashi wears Erdem; erdem.com. Model Ai Tominaga wears a Dilara Findikoglu jacket (dilarafindikoglu.com) and Luar skirt (luar.world). Model Kiko Mizuhara wears Dior; Dior boutiques. Surrounding them? Some of the coolest young creatives in Tokyo: Xiaqua, Kou U, ViDA, Masaya Otsuka, Kien (standing, at rear), Nanami, Aran, Who28, and Koinu (leaning against the door).


HIGH AND MIGHTY Model Devon Aoki is up for anything in a fetchingly feathered Chanel top skirt boots and earrings select...

HIGH AND MIGHTY
Model Devon Aoki is up for anything in a fetchingly feathered Chanel top, skirt, boots, and earrings; select Chanel boutiques. 


FANCY FOOTWORK A selection of geta—traditional thong sandals raised on wooden slats called ha—all by Watomi with...

FANCY FOOTWORK
A selection of geta—traditional thong sandals raised on wooden slats called ha—all by Watomi, with platform boots from Etro (top right) thrown into the mix. 


GOOD SCENTS Aoki accepts a posy from master flower artist Makoto Azuma in an Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood...

GOOD SCENTS
Aoki accepts a posy from master flower artist Makoto Azuma in an Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood top and choker (viviennewestwood.com)—the very picture of romantic dishabille—and All-In skirt (all-in-studio.com). Thom Solo shoes.


ROAD RULES At a busy intersection in Shinjuku City model Hikari Mori  and Aoki find their footing in ebullient and...

ROAD RULES
At a busy intersection in Shinjuku City, model Hikari Mori (with arms raised) and Aoki find their footing in ebullient and extravagant Marc Jacobs dresses and towering boots; bergdorfgoodman.com.


SHAPING UP At the Italian Embassy in Tokyo—codesigned by Italian architect Pier Francesco Borghese and Japanese...

SHAPING UP
At the Italian Embassy in Tokyo—codesigned by Italian architect Pier Francesco Borghese and Japanese architect Masachika Murata in the early 1960s—Mizuhara goes to dramatic lengths with bonsai master Torayuki Yamada in a Junya Watanabe dress; shop.doverstreet​market.com. Corset belt from Zana Bayne.


SHINE ON Dilara Findikoglu dress and necklace.

SHINE ON
Dilara Findikoglu dress and necklace.


HARAJUKU GIRLS Mori—clad in an artfully layered Thom Browne dress  and cummerbund—cant help but attract a small fan club...

HARAJUKU GIRLS
Mori—clad in an artfully layered Thom Browne dress (complete with a trailing train) and cummerbund—can’t help but attract a small fan club on Takeshita Street; thombrowne.com for information. Bottega Veneta shoes.


OVER AND UNDER Takahashi takes five in a bright pink Balmain sweater us.balmain.com. Christopher John Rogers skirt...

OVER AND UNDER
Takahashi takes five in a bright pink Balmain sweater; us.balmain.com. Christopher John Rogers skirt; christopher​johnrogers.com. Noir Kei Ninomiya x Repetto shoes.


FLOWER CHILD Dropped into what might best be described as a floral fantasia  Aoki and her daughter Eleanor wear graphic...

FLOWER CHILD
Dropped into what might best be described as a floral fantasia (courtesy of Makoto Azuma), Aoki and her daughter Eleanor wear graphic mommy-and-me Marni; marni.com. Below: Eleanor wears Calzedonia socks. Dr. Martens shoes.


BLOCK PARTY  Noir Kei Ninomiya dress.

BLOCK PARTY 
Noir Kei Ninomiya dress.


A CUT ABOVE As chef Mei Kogo shows off her handiwork at Sushi Arai in Ginza Aoki lets her punk flag fly in a...

A CUT ABOVE
As chef Mei Kogo shows off her handiwork at Sushi Arai, in Ginza, Aoki lets her punk flag fly in a retro-fabulous Moschino dress; moschino.com.


ROLL WITH IT Tominaga is all…no make that mostly business in a dashing  Valentino jacket shirt and skirt. All at...

ROLL WITH IT
Tominaga is all…no, make that mostly business in a dashing (and rather daring) Valentino jacket, shirt, and skirt. All at Valentino boutiques.


THE FUN OF IT Burberry plaid top and briefs. Bottega Veneta skirt. Jewelry from Chanel and Versace.

THE FUN OF IT
Burberry plaid top and briefs. Bottega Veneta skirt. Jewelry from Chanel and Versace.


MIXED COMPANY Why settle for a single party dress when you can double the trouble—and the texture and the fun—with two...

MIXED COMPANY
Why settle for a single party dress when you can double the trouble—and the texture, and the fun—with two? Aoki wears a strapless Versace minidress and shoes (versace.com) over a many-patterned All-In dress (all-in-studio.com).


TOUGH STUFF Dwarfed by a massive stone lantern or tōrō Aoki catches the light in a Louis Vuitton jacket and dress select...

TOUGH STUFF
Dwarfed by a massive stone lantern, or tōrō, Aoki catches the light in a Louis Vuitton jacket and dress; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. 


In this story: hair, Issac Yu; makeup, Ana Takahashi. AMKK (Azuma Makoto studio).