“I was born in downtown Atlanta, making me what locals call a Grady Baby, a reference to the storied [Grady Memorial] hospital in the center of town,” says Tayari Jones, whose fifth and latest novel, Kin (Knopf), is out this month. Kin is about two childhood friends—both motherless daughters—on the road to womanhood and partly set in Georgia’s capital, in particular at Jones’s alma mater, Spelman College. Her other novels, which include An American Marriage and Silver Sparrow, also take place in the city. “I lived most of my life in southwest Atlanta, a.k.a. The SWATS, until I finished college, when I moved to Iowa, and the shock of that contrast gave me a whole new appreciation for life in the urban South,” says Jones.
While the author, who teaches English and creative writing at Emory University, has lived around the country, her hometown remains a touchstone. “In my writing, you can feel an exile’s longing for home, and laced through that is just a touch of defensiveness,” she tells Vogue. “The South gets such a bad rap up north. My friends in New York treated me as though I had arrived in Brooklyn on the Underground Railroad. Eight years ago, I returned home for good with nothing left to prove. Now my writing reconciles the city of my longing with the thriving, evolving metropolis that exists. Atlanta has changed, and so have I. But we’re still in love.”
Her other loves:
Hotel: The Tess. Located right in the heart of Buckhead, this hotel is luxe without being fussy. The amenities are primo, but should you feel the need to venture out, you are walking distance from excellent shopping and restaurants.
Restaurant go-to: The Consulate. Every quarter, a blindfolded guest spins the globe to determine the featured cuisine for the next three months. I know it sounds crazy, and it is, but in a good way. I had no idea I was such a fan of the cuisine of the Galápagos!
For breakfast: Saints + Council. Forget chicken and waffles. What you want is chicken and a Dutch baby. Trust me.
For a caffeine fix: The Daily. The coffee is delightful, featuring seasonal lattes prepared by baristas who seem like they may moonlight as bartenders. The Daily is one of the few cafés that does not offer Wi-Fi, which means that it vibes like a café rather than a coworking space.
For dessert: Southern Sweets. If you need a whole cake for a party or just a slice, this is the best bakery in town. The caramel layer cake has been the gold standard for the entire South for more than 30 years.
Late-night diner: Octopus Bar isn’t a diner, it’s a dive—yet it has restaurant-quality food. A fried grouper sandwich on a brioche bun at 3 a.m. on a Wednesday renewed my faith in humanity. This is where bar and restaurant workers go after hours to grab a bite and blow off some steam.
Theater: Actor’s Express. Broadway quality in a 100-seat theater. What’s not to like? A recent performance of Topdog/Underdog had me weeping as though I had never seen it before.
Museum: Atlanta Contemporary is dedicated to the art of the city. Located in what used to be called Bankhead (it has been newly christened “West Midtown”), it is the best example of urban renewal done right. Highlighting fine art and trap music culture alike, this space celebrates all of Atlanta’s muses.
Bookstore or library: Charis Books and More is the oldest continuously open feminist bookstore in the South. It carries all the hot new releases but also zines that hark back to the ’90s beside snarky stickers supporting women’s right to choose any damn thing they want.
To buy flowers: Each bouquet from In the Meadow feels like a courtship, even if you gift one to yourself. The shop sources from local farms, creating arrangements that pop with ranunculus, scabiosa, foxgloves, and whatever else is gorgeous and in season.
Must-take Instagram shot: Krog Street Tunnel in Cabbagetown is dark, moody, and graffitied. The contrast with a filmy sundress is Instagram gold.
Must-buy souvenir: “Atlanta Influences Everything” T-shirt. Just because it has become a cliché doesn’t mean it’s not true.
Tourist trap I love anyway: The Varsity, a game-day staple since 1928. Sometimes you just need a chili dog and milkshake in the company of very enthusiastic Georgia Tech fans.
For peace and quiet: As long as your visit doesn’t coincide with one of the blowout summer festivals like House in the Park, Grant Park is an urban oasis, just a couple of miles from downtown. Imagine 131 acres of lush greenery and wide walking paths. Spread a blanket on the grassy lawn and enjoy the shade of all seven varieties of Georgia magnolias.
Best way to get around town: Car. Movie studios aren’t the only thing we have in common with L.A. Rush hour is a nightmare, but our drivers are polite.
Day trip: Providence Canyon State Park, a.k.a. the Little Grand Canyon. Full disclosure: It may look like a natural wonder, but it’s really a lemons-to-lemonade situation. Bad farming in the 1800s created massive gullies over 150 feet deep that look so much like the Grand Canyon that you could fake it on Instagram. The giveaway would be the late-blooming azaleas with their lovely pink, purple, and white flowers.
Best time to visit, weatherwise: Anytime except July or August. All other months, you can ride with the top down.
Cheap date: Last fall, Eats shut down, and I felt like someone had erased my memories of my 20s when a $5 pasta dinner wasn’t so much cheap as doable. I am happy to report that an angel investor has taken over, and Eats is reopening at the Lee + White compound. Young folks and bohemians all over town are rejoicing!
Worth-it splurge: Lazy Betty. What’s more decadent than an eight-course dinner with wine pairing? Eight courses, wine pairing, and caviar enhancement. It’s a great place to go on your birthday, because there will be at least one other person raising a glass to another trip around the sun.
Best place for people-watching: The Beltline is a pedestrian thoroughfare that spans about 15 miles. Booed-up couples, runners, boom-box-toting skateboarders, and fashionable dogs and their walkers love it. If you’re lucky, you may catch a pop-up performance by the CommUNITY ATL Choir. The acoustics under the North Highland Bridge spread their joyful sounds for miles around.
Secret spot only locals know: The Busy Bee is an old-school soul food joint that has been open continuously since the ’40s. You have not eaten fried chicken until you go to the Bee! It was awarded a James Beard Award in 2022, but it hasn’t gotten saditty. Why? Because most folks who frequent this place don’t know James Beard from a can of paint. They just know good food!
Favorite airport restaurant: Ecco is in the international concourse—outside security, so your friends who are not traveling can join you. The menu is the same as its flagship location in midtown. If you don’t get the upgrade on your flight, enjoy a whole branzino and glass of Sancerre at Ecco and pass on the plane food.
What you should know about my city: Atlanta is known to history buffs as the city that rose from the ashes after it was burned in the Civil War. “The city too busy to hate” is the birthplace of Gone With the Wind as well as Martin Luther King Jr. So many movies and TV shows are taped here that we have earned the nickname the Hollywood of the South. When André 3000 famously declared, “The South got something to say,” he was talking about Atlanta.