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Dubai-based Lebanese designer Dima Ayad launched her eponymous size-inclusive brand in 2010, and has been gradually gaining traction in the Middle East since, with a regular slot on the Dubai Fashion Week schedule and six stockists. But 2023 was a breakthrough year: the brand was picked up by Net-a-Porter, its first large international stockist, and launched a collaboration with Italian label Marina Rinaldi.
Arab designers have long been associated with either modestwear or high-glamour red-carpet fashion. Ayad is among a new generation — many of whom are based in Dubai, considered the fashion capital of the region — that are gaining international recognition for their contemporary styles. Others include Faiza Bouguessa (also stocked by Net-A-Porter) and Lama Jouni (available in several international stores, such as London’s Browns). While each of these labels has a distinct aesthetic, they all draw inspiration from their Middle Eastern roots.
“For regional designers to gain the eyes of international buyers, they must offer something unique; that is important,” says Ayad. “In my case, it was my size range [XS to 4XL]; in others, it could be fabric manipulation.”
Designers flag that international retailers have been slow to pick them up, out of fear of over shipping and other infrastructure challenges. However, for Net-a-Porter, which boasts a robust roster of designers from the region, uniqueness holds significant value. “Our buying team is always scouting for new designers around the world, taking into account local and global customer needs. They look for brands that have a unique DNA and offer something that our customers can’t find elsewhere, enhancing our edit,” says Celine Lefebvre, general manager of Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP) Middle East.
The appeal for buyers is twofold, says Ayad: “Buyers have a clear understanding of the purchasing power in the Arab world. There’s also an element of newness in discovering new markets and new designers. Consumers are tired of the same old, same old. A buyer’s real talent is to expose their customer to something innovative and different that appeals to a wider spectrum of people.”
Jacob Abrian, founder and CEO of the Arab Fashion Council (co-founders of Dubai Fashion Week along with Dubai Design District, or D3, a purpose-built business park for creative industries, which is part of the United Arab Emirates-based entity Tecom Group), has also observed the increasing inclusion of Arab designers on international platforms. “While the potential customer base in the region is undoubtedly a consideration, there is also a growing acknowledgment of the maturity and innovation within Arab contemporary wear,” he says.
It’s not easy, says Lefebvre. “Turning a creative passion into a global business requires a fundamental understanding of business as well as funding, to be able to provide marketing assets, supply chain and a sustainable production capacity.”
Here’s how each Middle Eastern contemporary designer is making it work, carving out their niche in an often-tokenised industry and appealing to the international fashion set.
Dima Ayad: The poster girl for body positivity
Originally a side hustle for the PR professional, who still runs her own agency, Ayad couldn’t find clothes that worked for her, leading to the establishment of her label. “A commitment to inclusivity has set the Dima Ayad label apart in a saturated market,” says Abrian. “Based in Dubai, the brand not only inspires global counterparts but also engages in unique collaborations with renowned industry brands.”
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Her designs have also resonated with an international audience. Ayad is known for her love of both the kaftan and power suit silhouettes, as well as metallics and bright colours. “Designers such as Dima Ayad bring a new vision of eveningwear, incorporating inclusive sizing, striking textures and bold colourways,” says Lefebvre. Ayad’s capsule collection for Ramadan 2023 on Net-a-Porter marked a significant milestone, positioning her as a label to watch; the e-tailer has since bought into her Resort and Ramadan 2024 collections.
Bouguessa: Quietly building a following
Similarly, French Algerian designer Faiza Bouguessa established her eponymous label a decade ago because she couldn’t find a Middle Eastern brand with a modern aesthetic that resonated with her penchant for minimalist style and meticulous tailoring. “There was no brand that I felt understood the needs of the Middle Eastern consumer,” says Bouguessa.
Bouguessa initially gained recognition for her “global abaya”, a contemporary interpretation of the traditional abaya designed to seamlessly integrate into the wardrobes of women worldwide. Over the years, her label has evolved into a comprehensive collection of ready-to-wear, featuring everything from jeans to evening dresses. The brand recently introduced its first handbag, and is planning to launch eyewear and footwear.
Bouguessa is open about the difficulties of operating from the Middle East, highlighting shipping and customs costs as significant considerations for international buyers (she is contemplating establishing a European base to streamline operations). Still, awareness of the brand is growing internationally, thanks in part to product placement and influencer marketing: its pink trench coat featured in the latest season of And Just Like That, and Hailey Bieber recently wore the label’s iconic Kai trench.
Lama Jouni: A cut (out) above
Having worked in Paris at Balmain and Rad Hourani, Lama Jouni decided to create a home-grown label that sits between luxury and fast fashion. The Lebanese designer is known for her cut-outs and use of body conscious fabrics such as viscose, which appeal to both Gen Z and older women. Now based in Dubai, her strongest markets are the UAE and the US.
Like Bouguessa, Jouni believes that product placement on influential women worldwide — such as Beyoncé, Priyanka Chopra and Amina Muaddi — has helped her brand gain a global footprint. While her label is found at Intermix, Browns, and on platforms such as Revolve and Farfetch, the direct-to-consumer business is a priority. “We believe that, especially for independent and relatively young brands, maximising high margins through this channel is crucial,” Jouni says.
Jouni believes Dubai-based brands have just started to gain the international attention they deserve. “There are regional designers that are on international platforms; however, there aren’t enough of them. There seems to be hesitancy among international retailers to embrace ready-to-wear brands from our region,” she says. “This stems from a perception that the infrastructure in our area does not meet international standards. As a result, retailers are concerned about potential delays in delivery and compromises in product quality and design. However, the resilience of brands that have been consistently creating collections over the past few years is gradually shifting this perspective.”
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