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With momentum from some of luxury’s most powerful brands, some exciting debuts and returns, one fond farewell and some serious travel disruption expected in Paris, the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear season is set to be quite the ride.
London’s new menswear concept
First stop is London, where the British Fashion Council (BFC) is trialling a new concept this season. Taking place from 7 to 9 June, the cultural event will feature as many parties, immersive experiences and talks as it does runway shows. The aim? To celebrate the “breadth and depth” of the British menswear industry and the different cultures that shape it. The cultures in focus are: Black culture centred around self-love; South Asian culture with focus on pattern, textile and craftsmanship; and queer culture, spotlighting young creative voices from the trans community.
As part of the new event format, on Friday, the BFC will take over the Institute of Contemporary Arts for an exhibition and panel discussions. The exhibit will be open to the public on Saturday.
“The new format is a direct result of the conversations we are continuously having with the BFC community (designers, media, UK and international retailers),” said BFC CEO Caroline Rush in a statement. “We want to ensure we are recognising the business needs of our designers and providing them with a global showcasing platform that is both relevant and beneficial. This iteration of London Fashion Week is a really exciting opportunity to future proof and innovate the UK’s fashion-showcasing capabilities and highlight the city’s point of difference during men’s fashion month.”
Craig Green unofficially kicked off proceedings Wednesday morning with an intimate show in his studio — his first show in London since Spring 2022. Qasimi will return to the London runway on Saturday for the first time under Hoor Al Qasimi, sister of the brand’s founder Khalid Al Qasimi, who died in 2019.
Young label Denzilpatrick will present its SS25 collection on 7 June, followed by Charles Jeffrey, who will return to the capital after four seasons in Milan to celebrate his 10th anniversary with a runway show, archive exhibition and party.
Pitti Uomo
Then to Florence, for the 106th edition of trade show Pitti Uomo, running 11 to 14 June.
Marine Serre is the guest designer this season, in a slot previously occupied by Milan’s Luca Magliano (AW24) and LA’s Erl (SS24). Showing on Wednesday evening at the 15th-century Villa di Maiano, Serre will present her first-ever menswear show. The designer launched menswear in January 2024, moving from the women’s to the men’s calendar at Paris Fashion Week to show co-ed for SS24. She then returned to the womenswear schedule for AW25, and is now landing in Florence to outline her vision for upcycled menswear.
“I am excited to see Marine’s first standalone menswear as I love her vision,” says Julie Ehrmann, Printemps general merchandise director for men’s ready-to-wear, accessories and shoes. “Printemps was one of the first stores worldwide to introduce her [Serre’s] men’s collection.”
On 11 June, British menswear stalwart Paul Smith will return to Pitti to present his main line for SS25. He was the first guest designer to show at Pitti’s historic Stazione Leopolda in 1993, but has something slightly different in mind for his second outing, decades later. “I plan to do something more intimate and personal than the very elaborate shows that seem to have become the norm,” he told Vogue Business in April.
“Pitti is the tailoring capital, so I’m very much looking forward to seeing what Sir Paul Smith has in store for the fair,” says Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director at Nordstrom.
Elsewhere, Italian label Plan C, founded by Carolina Castiglioni (daughter of Marni founder Consuelo Castiglioni), will present its debut menswear capsule.
During the fair, we’ll be visiting ‘S/Style #8’ — a Kering-backed showroom of designers prioritising material innovation and/or social responsibility — in the fair’s sala delle nazioni. The roster includes London’s Denzilpatrick, Italy’s Via Piave 33, and Buzigahill from Uganda. Each designer has created special looks in collaboration with Kering’s Milan-based material innovation lab (MIL), established in 2013, to help the group’s design teams source and work with more responsibly sourced materials.
Milan Fashion Week men’s
Next up is Milan Fashion Week men’s, from 14 to 18 June. Like last season, which began with Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci menswear debut, this season commences with a fresh start: Moschino creative director Adrian Appiolaza will present the brand’s first menswear show since SS23 on 14 June. It’s also Appiolaza’s first full collection for the house (he took the helm just weeks before the brand’s AW24 womenswear show in February). Appiolaza is a “grand master menswear nerd”, says Vogue Business’s Luke Leitch. “His debut for Moschino is a hot ticket for me.”
“I’m expecting a bit more fun and playfulness in Milan this season, compared to the last few seasons that were quite conservative,” says Printemps’s Ehrmann. “I guess we are all waiting to see Sabato’s second Gucci men’s show as well as the new Moschino.” De Sarno will present his sophomore collection for Gucci men’s on Monday.
Other returning brands include heavyweights Prada, Armani, JW Anderson and Zegna, which as usual, will close out the event on Monday afternoon.
“I’m always excited about Prada, JW Anderson, Armani and Canali in Milan,” Nordstrom’s DeLeon says. Tailoring giant Canali is celebrating its 90th anniversary this season, with a party in the city’s Piazza del Duomo area on 14 June. MSGM will celebrate the house’s 15-year anniversary with its first co-ed runway show since 2009 on 15 June. Milan rising star Luca Magliano will return to Milan this season, following on from his guest slot at Pitti Uomo in January.
A new British contingent will land in the Italian city. Celebrated London designer Martine Rose will make her Milan debut this season, in place of her usual off-schedule home shows. Rose, who received majority stake investment from Tomorrow Ltd in 2021, was guest designer at Pitti for its 103rd edition (during AW23); this Milan moment may help the brand reach its ambitious goals for growth. “Martine’s rightly huge reputational profile far exceeds the scale of the brand and this move to Italy could — and should — see that ratio level out a little,” says Leitch.
Alongside Rose, fellow Brit David Koma will make his Milan debut on 15 June, with a presentation launching his menswear line. And on Sunday 16, London label Dunhill will stage its inaugural Milan show.
In terms of new names, DeLeon is looking forward to the latest collection from up-and-coming designer Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, winner of the 2023 LVMH prize — as well as PDF, an elevated streetwear label from celebrity stylist and designer Domenico Formichetti. “[That’s] a project that’s been on my radar for a while,” DeLeon says. Leitch is also aiming to get a peek of PDF’s presentation, after hearing buzz around the budding label from industry friends in Milan.
Paris Fashion Week men’s
And finally, to Paris, where we’re expecting very different fashion men’s and couture weeks this season, amid major disruption due to the upcoming Olympics.
Some brands will be missing from the Paris schedule — though not necessarily because of the Olympics. Valentino’s newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele will present his debut collection for the maison in September; Paul Smith will be at Pitti; Givenchy is amid searches to replace its former creative director Matthew Williams; and Gmbh will show in its native Berlin, at Berlin Fashion Week in early July.
Olympics disruption isn’t anticipated to halt major moments for Paris Fashion Week, however. Following his star-studded debut and last year’s Western-themed show (which helped birth one of the year’s most prominent trends), all eyes will be on Pharrell Williams’s Louis Vuitton once more this season. Meanwhile, beloved Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, who launched his eponymous label in 1986, is set to retire after what’s set to be an emotional final show on the evening of 22 June. Resale sites have already seen a surge in search for Van Noten finds, as fans scrabble to source pieces designed by his hand.
“Pharrell has made Louis Vuitton men’s one of the most anticipated pop culture events of the season,” says DeLeon. “But I think I’m not alone in anticipating the bittersweet moment of Dries Van Noten’s final menswear show.”
Alongside the usual much-anticipated shows from Rick Owens, Dior and Loewe, for many a planned highlight will be Jun Takahashi’s Undercover, which will make a return to the men’s calendar in Paris this season; buyers and press are looking forward to the presentation, after his popular womenswear show centred around the working woman for AW24.
When it comes to emerging designers, Paris has plenty to offer. “There has been a lot of potential in the emerging designer space where these brands have been able to offer very credible fashion at a great value to our customers,” says DeLeon. “Shinpei Goto’s Masu, out of Japan, brought a good amount of buzz to its Paris runway debut last season, so I’m very interested to see it this season. I’ve also got my eyes on Luu Dan, an independent label that’s only a couple of years old by designer Hung La.”
“Anticipation-wise, it’s going to be fun having our summer Paris cameo in the run-up to the games,” says Leitch. “Whether it’s the Brexit referendum, the gilets jaunes, or something else, the ‘piquancy’ of Paris always becomes especially extra when there’s a bigger story than trouser shapes or luxury house HR updates happening around the shows.”
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