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Sometimes you love a runway show, and sometimes you don’t: We all have opinions about what we see, whether we’re sitting in the front row or scrolling through the new Vogue app. At Forces of Fashion earlier this week, the Vogue Runway team hosted a Write the Review workshop in which select attendees were invited to share those opinions. The assignment: choose between the spring 2025 shows of Tory Burch, Burberry, Prada, and Saint Laurent, and do like the Vogue Runway reviewers do. These are our winners, one for each of the four shows, with a bonus honorable mention.
Saint Laurent spring 2025, reviewed by Veronika Gubina
Anthony Vaccarello’s new women’s collection seamlessly picks up on the theme of his March men’s show. It seems natural due to the original gender fluidity that’s a key element of the brand’s DNA, etched in fashion history by the iconic Le Smoking. But for next spring, Vacarello shifts the focus, evolving the men’s suit on women’s shoulders from evening tuxedo to business uniforms.
The inspiration draws from the style of Yves Saint Laurent himself in the late ’70s and early ’80s, immortalized with square shoulders, wide-leg trousers, and oversized thick eyeglasses. On the mood board also are a freshly starched Richard Gere in American Gigolo and the iconic Patrick Bateman from American Psycho, who totally nailed 1980s businessman style. Bateman’s image of a wealthy, narcissistic Manhattan investment banker became the epitome of 1980s corporate America style. Vaccarello reimagines it, transforming corporate Manhattan into “Womanhattan.” At the center is a heroine in a classic charcoal double-breasted jacket with exaggerated shoulders, large notch lapels and the low button stance, emphasizing form-fitting silhouettes and extreme proportions. Vaccarello conveys that this impeccable masculine tailoring, a symbol of control and power, is now being passed on to women—what needs to happen everywhere for a better future.
Wide-shouldered suits alone aren’t sufficient. Vaccarello takes it to new heights by layering even wider-shouldered trench coats and aviator jackets over them. While such an approach risks resulting in a heavy, flat look, he skillfully balances it by using neutral tones from office elevators or occasionally opts for a monochromatic palette—think elegant beige from head to toe. Another way is to merge artfully through gradients of light to rich shades, such as platinum to basalt, sand to ochre, or olive to patina.
Regarding color accents, the show develops our taste buds with shades of wine, chocolate, and greenery while expanding our sartorial lexicon with a curated ultimate necktie guide—foulard, Macclesfield, and Spitalfields, celebrating a variety of polka dots, stripes, and fine patterns. Powerful women, however, don’t hesitate to add to their tie outfits some chunky metal bracelets on both wrists, effortlessly rolling up their cuffs to showcase them. These Berber-inspired ethnic elements, adored by Yves Saint Laurent’s muse Loulou de la Falaise, are rapidly amplified in the next block of the show that includes billowing glistening gossamer dresses and silk tunics over pants. Heavy layered necklaces and flaming metal earrings help ground this whirlwind slightly.
The boho aesthetic merges with office-core as the trench coat layered on the business suit is replaced by patterned silk robe coats. Such pieces were favorites of Yves Saint Laurent himself, often worn in his Marrakech villa, and cherished by his American muse Nan Kempner. She was the quintessential New York socialite, renowned for her ability to pair couture with denim, wearing brocade trousers inside out, and being among the first to try Le Smoking. Her signature evening brocade, damask, and lurex take center stage in the finale part of the show where Vacarello releases a bright palette, drawing jewel tones from Saint Laurent’s archival Chinese and Indian collections of the ‘70s—emerald, rich violet, juicy rubies and gold—and coloring with them shimmering jackets, open back tops, and lace skirts. After all, once the corporate day concludes, it’s time for the corporate party!
Prada spring 2025, reviewed by Timothy Medina
Let me guess the big question you have for Miuccia Prada about this year’s spring 2025 collection. What is the science that drove Prada to this year’s discovery? The material architecture, each model’s demeanor, and the audience’s reactions on Vogue.com brought about curiosity for us as the reader, the buyer, and the college student. Prada observed that we, as buyers, aspire for a future that is intergenerational and embodies leadership, much like our soon-to-be first woman President of the United States. Prada’s historically recognized detailed craftsmanship connected us to an futuristic archetype where folx can focus on singularity, sophistication, delicacy, and inner beauty. The show reinvented everyday life through craftsmanship, making it more accessible to walk into meetings, leave school after hours to study for midterms, and enjoy life with those who love to bask in the sunshine after this year’s elections.
Prada has always appealed to a diverse range of tastes, and in the upcoming season, my fellow Gen Z members anticipate a future in Prada, where they will sit at tables alongside CEOs, change makers, and trailblazers who are making decisions that will address climate change until 2050. We get it, Prada; the world depends on us, and you’re giving us the clothes that’ll get us through the door. Thank you for seeing that we Gen Z folx are leaders in our own academic disciplines. We sit at the same table as the leaders of this country. And in Prada is how we’ll discuss how the pendulum swings.
Tory Burch spring 2025, reviewed by Anne Fejer
As Tory Burch herself described, the spring 2025 collection embodies “the synchronicity of movement and form with the essence of sport: power, grace, precision, and freedom.” This blend of natural elements, vintage aesthetics, and modern athleticism is seen throughout the collection. A standout feature was the reimagined iconic Tory Burch pieces. The popular pieced mule shoe, a staple from last season, was reinterpreted as a sleek, functional bag. Could this potentially become the next “it” accessory for 2025?
The footwear in this collection was particularly eye-catching. The open-toe heels in sage green, with their playful peekaboo-toe design, were a highlight. Additionally, the return of the beloved Reva Ballet flat was a nostalgic touch. While the sneaker trend remains strong, Burch’s playful designs in heels and flats offer a refreshing alternative. Burch’s new designs could potentially shift how we perceive footwear, ushering in an era where sleek, playful Tory Burch heels replace chunky boots and the sneakers we wear in the club. The show’s setting, a tiled pool, further emphasized the collection’s inspiration in water, athleticism, and vintage aesthetics. The vintage athlete prints, which look like diptychs, seemed to draw inspiration not only from the uniforms worn in sports but also from the materials and spaces used for athletic activities. The drawstring skirts and ruffled flowy tops, in particular, evoked the rhythmic motion of waves of water when swimming. They appear light and airy, as if they could flow with the breeze yet still maintain a refined and polished look.
Tory Burch’s spring 2025 collection successfully blended timeless elegance with contemporary athleticism. Burch continues to successfully adapt to the current challenges faced by women today, offering a source of empowerment as women strive to be strong, graceful, and forward-thinking.
Burberry spring 2025, reviewed by Yemi Akande
Burberry’s spring 2025 runway show was a masterclass in action-ready fashion, blending utility with elegance. The collection embraced a dynamic theme, presenting garments that seemed designed for individuals constantly on the move. The use of bold, energetic colors like chartreuse and burnt orange injected a lively spirit into the collection, while safari-inspired pants and jackets with functional zippers evoked a sense of adventure and practicality. These pieces didn’t just imply functionality—they embodied it, with every zip and seam reinforcing the idea of clothing made for action.
Lara Croft-like light women’s clothing, particularly the leather blouses and skirts in army green, captured a compelling balance between strength and femininity, transitioning seamlessly from daywear to evening. The juxtaposition of structured leather with softer silhouettes spoke to the duality of modern women’s lifestyles—ready for the demands of the day while maintaining an air of effortless sophistication. The return of classic Burberry hues—beige, black, and lavender—grounded the collection in the brand’s heritage, offering familiar tones in fresh, innovative designs. Playful elements, such as zippers on men’s trousers, brought a touch of irreverence to traditional tailoring, while the overall styling exuded a casual coolness that is becoming a signature of Burberry under the creative direction of Daniel Lee. Burberry’s spring 2025 collection is a nod to the adventurous spirit within us all, blending fashion-forward design with functional elements that make it suitable for any time of day, or any journey that lies ahead.
Honoroble Mention: Saint Laurent spring 2025, reviewed by Jordan Stonehouse
Much like Yves, Anthony Vaccarello appreciates women. He recognizes the numerous ways a woman can present herself in the world today, gives her the opportunity to do so, and do it well. The spring 2025 Saint Laurent collection gives power to choice. Dynamic lives require a mix of tailored suits for professional ventures, bohemian skirts for leisurely daytime activities, and colorful mini dresses for those late night bistro dinners (dancing on tables preferred). Whatever life has in store for the dynamic woman, Vaccarello gives her the choice. Neutral tones or bold color? Ultra feminine or androgynous? This collection gives power to the woman to choose how she wants to show up for it all. While a good wardrobe isn’t necessarily required to live a good life, collections like Saint Laurent spring 2025 give a woman the power to choose and the courage to live the one she truly desires.