Traditionally, Milan Fashion Week has been dominated by big names, but in recent seasons a new generation of designers has been included in the official schedule more frequently, whether for shows or presentations. Nevertheless, catching the attention of press and buyers is not an easy task, both due to the extreme competition and the high number of events to attend. Some of the newer names have received important exposure thanks to initiatives such as the Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant that, since 2020, has been rewarding young talents whose work is made in Italy, and showcasing their work. During this latest Fashion Week, a few newer designers generated a growing buzz, including Giuseppe Buccinnà, Lorenzo Seghezzi, and Moja Rowa.
As a civil engineer turned designer, Giuseppe Buccinnà’s world is made of opposites intertwined. After his degree at Politecnico di Milano he graduated in modeling at Istituto Secoli and then, in 2017, founded his eponymous brand. Technique and material experimentation are the two recurring elements in his approach to fashion: for example, leather treated to feel like silk that he used for a short and oversized trench in his spring 2026 collection; or the fake woven effect of a leather top that was actually embossed. Buccinnà wants to create matches between contrasts: rigid structures that derive from his engineering education and mathematical mind are often made from incredibly lightweight fabrics. In addition to leather, his signature materials are denim and jersey, always treated with innovative finishings. The designer’s research is directed towards an analysis of shapes and the human body, which he approaches in new ways using voluminous shoulders and strategically applied stitchings.
Lorenzo Seghezzi’s runway debut was this season. His brand started in 2021 as a tool to release emotions during the tough times of the Covid pandemic, and it was launched with a certain dose of naiveté. This spring collection, though, was more structured, even if everything was still handmade by him. The queer community and Milanese nightlife were his guidance; they have always been part of his life, and he grew up going to clubs. Although Seghezzi defined the collection as a love letter to this community, he also wanted to highlight feelings such as the alienation sometimes experienced by those who fully live at nighttime. His approach, similar to that of a costume designer, was full of drama and theatricality, being mainly based on the corsetry that has been his signature style since the beginning. Long feathers, tight corsets, and eyelet fastenings—both real and tromp-l œil—filled his collection.
Yelena Mojarova and Benedikt Sittler are the minds behind Moja Rowa, a brand “almost casually” born in 2022. After a shared experience at Vivienne Westwood, the couple decided to go to Mexico, where they unexpectedly stayed for three whole years, starting to create some of their first pieces, more as a game. Then, back to Milan, they moved from simple drops to more structured collections such as spring 2026, their sophomore effort. The idea is to preserve joie de vivre, especially in such a tough period, so they chose “Dance! Dance! Dance!” as their mantra for this season. Deadstock materials, in-house prints, and a recurring tie-dye—recalling their time spent in Mexico—are their core stylistic elements, together with garments and silhouettes they have made since they started out, like the sailor collar and the mermaid skirt. It was a joyful collection, presented as a sort of beauty pageant, complete with rosettes and identification numbers.