Revolving doors are nothing new in fashion. The fall 2004 season saw Tom Ford exit Gucci and Saint Laurent, and Julien Macdonald say “au revoir” to Givenchy. Meanwhile, Jean Paul Gaultier, following in the footsteps of his one-time assistant Martin Margiela, made his debut at Hermès, and in New York, Libertine sent their silkscreened vintage clothes down the runway for the first time. Trend-wise, things were unraveling (via deconstruction) at Comme des Garçons and Olivier Theyskens’s Rochas, while at Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, and Jonathan Saunders the vibe was more futuristic. Veiled faces and gloved hands leaned ladylike, while sequins and fur screamed G-L-A-M!
Military Maneuvers at A. F. Vandevorst
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Otherworldly Beauty at Alexander McQueen
Warrior Women at Ann Demeulemeester
A Walk on the Dark Side at As Four
Past Met Future at Balenciaga
Michael Kors Dressed Swans at Celine
Sailor Pants and Soft Shapes at Chalayan
Chanel Got Sporty
Capes, Cozy Knits, and Bows at Chloé
Teddy Boys Loomed Large at Christian Dior
Clements Ribeiro Channeled Grey Gardens
Divine Deconstruction at Comme des Garçons
Riley Keough Opened Dolce Gabbana
Bloomsbury Colors from Dries Van Noten
Julien Macdonald’s Givenchy Send-Off Was a ’50s Fiesta
Tom Ford Staged a Glam Gucci Finale
Lace-Edged Boots and Goddess Gowns at Helmut Lang
Jean Paul Gaultier Took the Reins at Hermès
Real Fakes at Jean Paul Gaultier
Minimalism and Metallics at Jil Sander
An Escape from Reality at John Galliano
At Jonathan Saunders, a Kaleidoscopic Take on Sci-Fi Prints
Puffers and Jeans the Junya Watanabe Way
Perfect Party Options From Alber Elbaz at Lanvin
Night Moves at Lawrence Steele
Libertine Waved the Flag at Their Debut Show
“Scotland, Tissot, a little Foujita” at Louis Vuitton
At Marc Jacobs, Rachel Feinstein Look-Alikes and Romance
“Luxe, but Without Ostentation” at Marni
Miu Miu, Matured
Patrick Robinson Brought City Chic to Perry Ellis
At Prada, “A Dream of Extreme Romanticism”
Polished Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Shades of Gray at Rick Owens
Olivier Theyskens Revealed Construction at Rochas
Tom Ford Bowed Out at Saint Laurent in Style
At Stella McCartney, Fall-Ready Separates
At Tim Van Steenbergen Models Sang the Donnie Darko Theme Song
At Undercover, Patti Smith Met Surrealism
