This Is What Fashion Week Looked Like 20 Years Ago—All the Highlights From the Spring 2003 Season

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Looks, from Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Collection, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan, and Ruffo Research.

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Do you know what never goes out of fashion? Change. But the speed at which things go in and out of fashion isn’t as rapid as you might think, in part because innovation is often fueled by reaction. When hemlines can get no higher, for example, they usually fall. Today there are no hard-and-fast rules of dress, but even in a time when anything goes, fashion is cyclical, as the vast Vogue Runway archive demonstrates.

On the eve of the spring 2023 season, we resurfaced some spring 2003 collections, most of which have aged well. Adidas, the omnipresent sportswear brand, was in the early days of its fashion collabs—see Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3. The tank tops that are trendy now were being worn then, cut-outs (still hot!) were everywhere, and as Instagram was yet to be invented, the nipple was free. At Saint Laurent it was painted purple for optimal exposure.

Explore these trends and more below.

Alexander McQueen

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Alexander McQueen, spring 2003

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Alexander McQueen, spring 2003

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Alexander McQueen, spring 2003

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Alexander McQueen, spring 2003

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Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière

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Balenciaga, spring 2003

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Balenciaga, spring 2003

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This image may contain Marcelle Bittar Human Person Clothing Footwear Apparel Shoe Fashion and Runway

Balenciaga, spring 2003

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Balenciaga, spring 2003

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Calvin Klein Collection

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Calvin Klein Collection, spring 2003

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Calvin Klein Collection, spring 2003

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Calvin Klein Collection, spring 2003

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Calvin Klein Collection, spring 2003

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Chloé by Phoebe Philo

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Chloé, spring 2003

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Chloé, spring 2003

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Chloé, spring 2003

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Chloé, spring 2003

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Christian Dior by John Galliano

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Christian Dior, spring 2003

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Christian Dior, spring 2003

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Christian Dior, spring 2003

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Christian Dior, spring 2003

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Comme des Garçons

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Comme des Garçons, spring 2003

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Comme des Garçons, spring 2003

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Comme des Garçons, spring 2003

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Comme des Garçons, spring 2003

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Dolce Gabbana

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 2003

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 2003

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 2003

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 2003

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Fendi by Karl Lagefeld

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Fendi, spring 2003

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Fendi, spring 2003

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Fendi, spring 2003

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Fendi, spring 2003

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Gucci by Tom Ford

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Gucci, spring 2003

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Gucci, spring 2003

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Gucci, spring 2003

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Gucci, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang

Image may contain Human Person Élise Crombez Runway Footwear Clothing Shoe Apparel and Fashion

Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Helmut Lang, spring 2003

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Hussein Chalayan

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Hussein Chalayan, spring 2003

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Hussein Chalayan, spring 2003

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Hussein Chalayan, spring 2003

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Hussein Chalayan, spring 2003

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Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

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Louis Vuitton, spring 2003

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Louis Vuitton, spring 2003

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Louis Vuitton, spring 2003

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Louis Vuitton, spring 2003

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Luella

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Marc Jacobs

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Marc Jacobs, spring 2003

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Marc Jacobs, spring 2003

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Marc Jacobs, spring 2003

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Marc Jacobs, spring 2003

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Marni by Consuelo Castiglioni

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Marni, spring 2003

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Miu Miu

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Miu Miu, spring 2003

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Miu Miu, spring 2003

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Miu Miu, spring 2003

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Miu Miu, spring 2003

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Narciso Rodriguez

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Narciso Rodriguez, spring 2003

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Narciso Rodriguez, spring 2003

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Narciso Rodriguez, spring 2003

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Narciso Rodriguez, spring 2003

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Prada

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Prada, spring 2003

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Prada, spring 2003

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Prada, spring 2003

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Prada, spring 2003

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Ralph Lauren

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Ralph Lauren, spring 2003

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Ralph Lauren, spring 2003

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Ralph Lauren, spring 2003

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Ralph Lauren, spring 2003

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Rick Owens

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Rick Owens, spring 2003

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Roland Mouret

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Roland Mouret, spring 2003

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Roland Mouret, spring 2003

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Roland Mouret, spring 2003

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Roland Mouret, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research by Haider Ackermann

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Ruffo Research, spring 2003

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Saint Laurent by Tom Ford

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Saint Laurent, spring 2003

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Saint Laurent, spring 2003

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Saint Laurent, spring 2003

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Saint Laurent, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Image may contain Robe Evening Dress Fashion Clothing Gown Apparel Human Person and Runway

Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Sophia Kokosalaki, spring 2003

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Stella McCartney

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Stella McCartney, spring 2003

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Stella McCartney, spring 2003

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Stella McCartney, spring 2003

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Stella McCartney, spring 2003

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Versace

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Versace, spring 2003

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Image may contain Human Person Liya Kebede Clothing Apparel and Fashion

Versace, spring 2003

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Versace, spring 2003

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Versace, spring 2003

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Y-3 by Yohji Yamamoto

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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Y-3, spring 2003

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