Deborah Turbeville’s “bathhouse” sitting, formally titled “There’s More to a Bathing Suit Than Meets the Eye,” caused something of a scandal when it appeared in the May 1975 issue of Vogue. In the decades since then it went on to become one of the most iconic shoots of stylist Polly Mellen’s career. Mellen died at 100 this week, so we’re republishing it here, alongside the eyebrow-raising for different reasons “Story of Ohhh…,” which was photographed by Helmut Newton and appeared in the very same issue. It was an “extraordinary” feat” for both stories to be published the same month, says Corporate Photography Director Ivan Shaw, one that “can only be attributed to Mellen’s astonishing mix of creative brilliance and unwavering courage.” —Laird Borrelli-Persson
“There’s More to a Bathing Suit Than Meets the Eye” was first published in the May 1975 issue of Vogue. Photographed by Deborah Turbeville. Fashion Editor, Polly Mellen. Hair, François of Suga; Christiaan. Makeup, Sandra Linter.
. . . . And there’s more to beachdressing this season than a bathing suit. There’s a whole other way of looking on the beach that has nothing at all to do with the old-T-shirt-over-a-bikini number. It’s a new way of pulling yourself together that’s fresh, attractive, totally beguiling. . . . There’s a skirt that matches your bathing suit to slip on for lunch, for a drink, for cover. . . . There are wonderful cover-ups—like an oversized terry poncho—that could be just as happy doubling at home . . . the flirtiest little beach dresses in terry, gauze, the thinnest cotton print . . . pieces of gauze to wrap as a sarong . . . robes to slide over bare skin. Even a new bathing cap—a thin, bright, super-sleek rubber cap or a soft terry cap in the prettiest colors (no floating gardens anywhere here!). . . . And just because we’ve come this far without actually talking bathing suits, don’t think they fade into the background. Bathing suits have never been better. The big news is the maillot—the sleekest, sexiest suit on the beach—the suit to own this summer. There are maillots with different kinds of bareness for different beaches (what’s good for St. Tropez may not be good for the country club). The colors: white to black to terra cotta to a sparkling new violet—a great color on the skin, great in the sun. And there’s something more in the fabric—the lightest-weight Lycra ever for bathing suits and skirts. Deceptively light and thin, it holds the body wonderfully—and may very well change your mind about you and a maillot. . . . When you want to be barer, bikinis, of course—with surprises in that department, too. In fact, if you think this is just-another-bathing-suit report, you’re going to be in for a lot of surprises on these ten pages. . . .
There’s a new appeal...and the secret is color!
1. The sleek line, the bare back, the news . . . the maillot! In a thin-striped violet-and-white Lycra with wide white stripes down the side. By Eres. Green print scarf, Ken Scott. Azuma Shoes. 2. What’s in back of a beautiful violet maillot?—beautiful bareness—the best (the longest!) line on the beach. By Eres, of Lycra. Pink scarf by Pierre Balmain. 3. The original racing maillot—the perfectly simple classic tank suit. This time, sleeker-fitting, prettier in violet with crisscross back straps. By Monika for Eton. Of nylon and Lycra. 4. The maillot—super-sleek violet banded in turquoise—cut very low in back, cut high on the leg for a long, long line. And a matching sarong to wrap as a skirt . . . as a strapless beach dress . . . a halter dress. Whatever you do, it does a lot for you—holds right on the body, looks marvelous! By Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, of Antron nylon and Lycra (United Elastic, a Division of J. P. Stevens). Orange scarf, Greek Island. 5. There’ll always be a bikini . . . and when you want to show more of a good body, this is one of the prettiest ways—the tiny violet-flowered bikini, from Lilly Pulitzer. With its own news: a perfect little wrapper—just like the robes she’s been doing for men—in the same violet print. Bikini, of nylon tricot; robe, of polyester and cotton. Both pages: hair, François of Suga; makeup, Sandra Linter. Background here and the next eight pages, the East 23rd Street Swimming Pool, through the courtesy of the New York City Parks, Recreation, and Cultural Affairs Administration.
BEAUTY PLUS: A beautiful makeup with the violets here (violets everywhere!) comes from Love—Love’s new Shine-On Lip Glosser in Polished Wine a rich, deep shade that gleams, gleams, gleams! To keep the same vibrant color going, Creamy Cheek Color in Red Wine . . . . For eyes, there’s the happy summer news of Love’s Waterproof Eye Color and Waterproof Mascara—colors you can really swim in. Good with violet, the shadow in Sea Heather and their new super-soft shade of Charcoal mascara.
The secret of looking great in a maillot . . . is knowing which one to choose
1. The white maillot, pure and simple—the thinnest, lightest stretch maillot cut straight across the top, with crisscross straps in back. By Jean-Louis Scherrer, of Lycra. Cap by Kleinert’s. 2. The girl wrapped in gauze. The point: some of this summer’s prettiest wrapping is for the beach. Here, to give you the idea, pieces of gauze wrapped as a sarong . . . as a skirt . . . scarf-wrapped for a small, neat head (and for sun and wind protection) . . . . And pieces of gauze knotted together to make the perfect little carrying sack for beach essentials. 3. The most revealing—a second-skin maillot that bares more than it covers—completely sheer back, cut very low and sheer cut-away sides—a maillot for the best bodies . . . the most liberated beaches! By Stephen Burrows. Maillot of Antron nylon and Lycra. Sheer sides of Antron nylon and spandex nylon (United Elastic, a Division of J.P. Stevens). 4. If you didn’t think you could wear a maillot, think about this one—all the bareness you want and a lot more hold than you’d ever expect—the white maillot from Courrèges with a self-lining of Lycra. Shoes, Bob Lee for Hunting World. 5. The perfect cover-up—the oversized terry poncho—in a small white-and-Bordeaux print—it’s like wrapping up in a big marvelous towel after a swim, at home after a bath . . . or to just relax in. By Ungaro. Of cotton velours. Hair, both pages: François of Suga; makeup, Sandra Linter.
BEAUTY PLUS: The secret of keeping dry, sensitive skin looking—and feeling—its best is moisture. The news is Helena Rubinstein’s Skin Life Deep Moisture Day Care Concentrate—an extra-rich moisturizing lotion to wear under makeup or alone. It conditions all day, soothing and softening skin—and if you need this kind of help—summer is the time you need it most!
The secret of the unconstructed bathing suit is in the fabric . . . and the charm is in what you wear with it
1. The racy tank suit—one of the lightest little maillots. Brown shadow stripes, with crisscross straps in back and just the tiniest bit of lift to the top. By Cole of California. Of Antron nylon and Lycra (Charbert fabrics). 2. The maillot to collect—to really swim in!—the least constructed of all. Sleek and bare, with a plunging back, plunging V-neck, in a wonderful new sun shade of terra-cotta (its “name” is Sexy—need we say more!). By Gottex of Israel. Of nylon and Lycra. 3. The Charmer!—a beguiling little sundress that you won’t save just for the beach—the easy little smock-dress gathered from a square neck, with loose wide kimono sleeves, toggle buttons, and the built-in freshness of a Liberty of London cotton flower print! By Jean Muir. Eva Graham necklace. 4. The beach Missonis—varying stripes of aubergine-and-white cotton knit on a bare, bare bikini and step-in skirt that dresses it for lunch . . . for later. It’s one of the best—easiest!—ways to pull a great look together—and a nice way to have Missonis in the summer! 5. What bikini lovers are always looking for: a really good basic black bikini. And this one has more to it—a plunging halter top with more holding power than you’d expect from something so bare. By Sirena, of Lycra. Kenneth slippers. Both pages: hair, François of Suga; makeup, Sandra Linter.
BEAUTY PLUS: With pretty new sun colors in the terra-cotta-to-brown range, try the new makeup colors in the same warm family. To gleam on the mouth, Super Luscious Lipstick in toasty Earth Brown. The nail enamel (and don’t forget toes—summer is pedicure season!) is Gingerwood Perfect Makeup for Nails. Both, from Ultima II by Charles Revson.
The secret of this summer’s beachdressing is . . . all in the putting-together
1. The dress that dresses the bathing suits here . . . anywhere: an easy, pretty smock in black crinkle cotton —the lightest, coolest summer fabric. With tiny buttons on the shoulder, long sleeves to roll, sashed waist—a dress that covers you going to/coming from the beach, at lunch, drinks, anytime! By Amerikan Climax. Sunwear cap. 2. The. shirt to tie over a bathing suit—the simple, silky black shirt that looks sensational—sleeves rolled, buttons opened—pulled low on the hip, over a matching black halter-top bikini . . . over any of the bathing suits here. By Jantzen. Shirt, of Antron nylon and Lycra (Deering Milliken fabric). Bikini (Fulton County Silk Mills fabric). Scarf, Yves Saint Laurent. 3. The strapless bikini—best friend an even tan ever had! With a bandeau top in vivid stripes of green, red, blue with black, solid black bottom. By Jantzen. Of Antron nylon and Lycra (Deering Milliken fabric). Sunwear cap. Selva shoes. 4. Swimmer’s stripes—a pretty, lightweight, serious-swimming maillot in blue-and-black with a bare back, tiny bow tie in front. By Catalina, of Antron nylon and Lycra (Deering Milliken fabric; striped fabric by Gilbert Frank). 5. The striped-and-solid bikini—a little bit of print, a lot of bare skin—solid black halter top, blue-and-black stripe-front bottom (same stripes as the maillot, at left). By Catalina, of Antron nylon and Lycra (Deering Milliken fabric; striped fabric by Gilbert Frank). Selva shoes. Both pages: hair, Christiaan; makeup, Sandra Linter.
You can live in a bikini all day . . . the secret is a wonderful terry covering
1. The classic top—the V-neck pullover—in soft navy terry. Easy enough to slide off the shoulder, with long sleeves to roll up—the kind of top you’re always looking for to slip over a bikini for lunch . . . for any time you want to be covered. By Jaeger, of cotton and polyester. 2. The soft peach terry beachdress with delicious little touches—loose, floppy sleeves, roomy pockets, cord sash, snaps down the front—the perfect dress to put over a bathing suit and take anywhere. (And this is the new, super-soft terry that also goes to town this summer!) By Stephen Burrows, of cotton and nylon (Gloversville Mills fabric). Gudule scarf. 3. Don’t forget a terry robe—the all-time beach covering (not to mention its bath / shower life at home). This year’s—the shortest take on the classic wrap robe, in navy with wide, loose, sleeves . . . very sexy. By Jaeger, of cotton and polyester. 4. Neat, cool pieces of white terry—short shorts and a T-shirt with cap sleeves—a terrific way to be bare on the beach when you’re not in a bathing suit. Just as handy to have around for tennis, boating, exercising, etc. By Lois Anderson for Tannerway, of Orion acrylic and Dacron polyester (Claridge Knits fabric). Sunwear cap. Fieldcrest towel. 5. The bikini to live in—to sun in!—the red strapless bikini—nothing to spoil the bareness! With pin-tucking on the bandeau top (it rounds out small curves in the nicest way), more tucks on the bottom. Christian Dior for Saks Fifth Avenue. Of nylon and Lycra.