All products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors. However, we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links.
There are a lot of unmarked roads in Mexico’s Baja California Sur. From the highway that connects the grand resorts of Los Cabos to the village of Todos Santos, they beckon—their dusty trails carving mysterious paths through vistas dotted with giant cardón cacti.
For those who rent a car—preferably one with four-wheel drive—the slow exploration of these roads yields a trove of discoveries: An oasis where the mouth of an underground spring feeds a grove of palm trees with fronds as green as a desert mirage; a secluded beach where cerulean waves crash between craggy, mermaid coves. As one local told me during a recent visit, “When you see a dirt road in Baja, take it. There’s always something interesting at the other end.”
This wild sense of possibility has drawn a steady stream of travelers to the small town of Todos Santos for decades. Some come to surf the nearby breaks, widely regarded as among the country’s best. Others, to wander the cobblestone streets lined with quaint artisan shops, candle-lit restaurants, and refurbished haciendas in the old part of town. The area is so enchanting that in 2006, the Mexican government designated Todos Santos a Pueblo Mágico—one of just 100 or so small towns celebrated across the country for their natural beauty, cultural riches, and historical relevance.
Now, with a handful of new design-forward hotels and a set of chefs who are taking full advantage of the area’s fresh produce, the charming town is more appealing than ever. Here’s where to go, where to stay, and what to do when you visit Todos Santos, Mexico.
How to Get There
Nestled between the Pacific coast and the Sierra Laguna mountains on Mexico’s Baja California Sur peninsula, Todos Santos is an easy one-hour drive dive north from Los Cabos on a well-maintained highway. Alternatively, it is a one-hour drive west of La Paz, the state’s capital.
While both La Paz and Los Cabos have airports, the easiest way to get to Todos Santos from most major American cities is to fly directly into San Jose del Cabo, which is the larger and busier of the two. From there, rent a car from one of the many familiar rental car companies like Hertz, Enterprise, Alamo, Sixt, and National or from a reliable local rental car company such as Cactus or BBB.
If you don t want to drive, Ubers, taxis, and shuttle services like Todos Santos Private Transport are available from San Jose del Cabo to Todos Santos. However, with so much to do and see in the region, the most enjoyable way to explore is with your own wheels. While the old town of Todos Santos itself is highly walkable, many of the area’s must-see attractions—from hiking to surfing to restaurants—are sprinkled along the coast and therefore best discovered via car.
Where to Stay
Paradero co-founders Pablo Carmona and Joshua Kremer designed their Todos Santos property with the intention of connecting visitors to the environment. Tucked away amid farmland—the dirt road drive to the property is lined with poblano peppers, and a field of sunflowers can’t help but become an Instagram attraction at sunset—and framed by the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, the property lets its surroundings set the tone. Minimalist rooms decorated in soothing sandy shades look out on endless green orchards, as does the infinity pool. Ground floor guests get sizable circular bathtubs or hammocks, while those on the upper floor have “star nets” to lounge in for constellation spotting.
Plant enthusiasts will appreciate the “Learn to Garden” experience which gives an overview of the area’s botany and provides an opportunity to pick vegetables that will then be prepared by the Paradero chef for that evening’s dinner. (The kitchen, which is worth a visit even if you’re not staying on property, is generally focused on highlighting local ingredients—many of them grown just steps away—at every meal.) It’s easy to spend an entire day poolside, consuming a steady stream of spicy margaritas while intermittently marveling over a cactus-perched iguana or curious roadrunner. And if you overdo it? The spa offers a special anti-inflammatory sun recovery treatment of aloe and tepezcohuite.
Perched on a fishing beach called Punta Lobos about 15 minutes south of town is the 32-room Hotel San Cristóbal from Bunkhouse Hotels, where every single element—from swirly tiled floors to brightly woven blankets and terra-cotta-potted cacti—has been painstakingly executed for maximum sensory enjoyment. There’s a specifically modern delight that comes from noticing all the small details that make up the sum: The candlesticks in the library with their artfully dripped wax, the three large fireplaces tucked into different nooks, the curtains in the guest rooms with their pretty bamboo pulls, and the woodsy smoke of copal incense that trails you wherever you go. Even the setting of the sun—which is marked each evening with the ringing of a giant gong—feels perfectly orchestrated; it dips below the horizon in exact alignment with the pool, allowing for unobstructed views of the glowing Pacific from wherever you choose to lounge.
The staff is made up almost entirely of locals who are quick to point out the region’s many treasures and the activities on offer to guests include several volunteer opportunities, like shepherding baby sea turtles back to the sea or fostering a local pup or helping out on one of the region’s farms. One of the hotel’s restaurants, Benno, is helmed by chef Jorge Cuadros, who focuses his Baja-Mediterranean menu on the day’s fresh catch from the fishermen who share the beach with the hotel (and, if you so desire, will teach you how to make your own ceviche).
With its handsome brick exterior, this 19th-century private hacienda was once owned by a Spanish and has long been a landmark in old town Todos Santos; it’s just steps from the iconic Hotel California and was long known as the Todos Santos Inn. Recently, the property changed hands and was given an extensive and elegant renovation complete with 10 lush guest rooms, an opulent new restaurant, and a tranquil courtyard swimming pool shaded by archways and palms.
A stone’s throw from Cerritos Beach in Pescadero is El Perdido, a hotel made up of seven jacales, or huts, connected by cacti-framed pathways and common areas that include a fire pit and a pool lined with sumptuous sun beds. Activities abound with an outdoor pool table, ping pong, and foosball, though this is no basement game room. Thatched roofs let slivers of sun stream in, while rammed-earth walls on two sides keep the space calm and cool. Guests also get access to surfboards and an ATV to drive to the beach. Coyote, the on-site restaurant that’s open to everyone, serves up seasonal dishes focused on local fish from a classic Airstream trailer.
La Bohemia is a collection of six whitewashed adobe rooms tucked into an oasis of palm trees and cacti just a few blocks from the historic town center. Owned by a pair of California transplants who decided to put down roots in Baja after taking a road trip to the area several years ago, the sweet hotelito incorporates many traditional elements in its design: Otomi embroidered headboards, hand-painted Talavera tiles, and hand-woven textiles.
On a secluded stretch of Pescadero Beach, this just-opened, adult-only resort from Kimpton features 103 guest rooms, many of which feature terraces and private plunge pools. The vibe is minimalist Baja chic, featuring local textiles in crisp desert hues. There are also three restaurants, a coffee shop, and several pools—but aside from the gorgeous ocean and mountain views, the real star of the show is the 25,000 square foot wellness center with a full-service hydrotherapy spa, pickleball courts, and dedicated spaces for meditation, pilates, and yoga.
Todos Santos has a wide array of Airbnbs on offer, among them Casa Notturno, a modernist home built into the hills just outside of town. With three bedrooms and four bathrooms—as well as a sunken living room—it’s perfect for a group stay. Stylish furnishings, a spacious kitchen, and a heated pool make it an ideal refuge after a long day at the beach. If Notturno is booked, try Casa Del Arte, a palm tree-dotted estate with arch-filled interiors, an outdoor kitchen, and a curving private pool. Stop by nearby Las Tunas Coffeeshop for an iced latte and farm-to-table breakfast in an airy setting.
Where to Eat
The best pastries in town are made by Julyanna Ortega and her team at Taller 17. Every morning brings a fresh array of sweets, from cinnamon buns to lemon meringue pie and a blondie that will stick in your mind for months after. This is the place to get cold brew, too.
You can’t go wrong with the farm-to-table fare at Jazamango, where chef Javier Plascencia serves up a menu of locally sourced fish—oysters, ceviche—as well as crowd-pleasers like burrata with heirloom tomatoes and wood-fired pizzas. Diners eat al fresco beneath vine-covered canopies at tables that are strategically placed so each party feels like they have their own private corner.
Outside of town, take advantage of the area’s stellar agriculture by dining on wood-fired pizza and super fresh salads at Hierbabuena, a charming alfresco restaurant located within an organic farm.
A drink at The Green Room is worth having any time, but especially so at sunset, when surfers are getting their last waves of the day and you can watch them from the restaurant with your feet in the sand and a mezcal in hand.
Barracuda Cantina is now serving up tacos and cocktails at Plaza Amigos, a downtown community space with shops, various food purveyors, and plenty of space to eat outside. Their original location is at Cerritos Beach, and both spots serve fresh ceviche and fish tacos (along with a fried avocado taco that will please vegetarians).
What to Do
Surfing has a long history in Baja culture, and Playa Cerritos, located about 20 minutes south of town in Pescadero, is no doubt the most popular beach for newbies and experts alike; it’s relatively easy to get to (down another dirt road) and offers both a gentle beach break and a more adventurous rocky point break. Boards, wetsuits, and lessons are available from Mario Surf School, which is located in a tent on the north end of the beach near the Hacienda.
For those who prefer dry land adventures, the surrounding Sierra de la Laguna mountain range is ideal for hiking and mountain biking. One popular hike is to the top of Punta Lobos, which affords breathtaking views of an abandoned fishing port where a sea lion colony has made its home.
Suez Taylor grew up riding horses competitively—as in, Team USA. She moved to Todos Santos in 2017. During the pandemic, she began rescuing local horses in need of rehabilitation and built up a stable at her home, eventually starting a pony club for girls in her neighborhood as a way to get them outdoors when school was online. Also a journalist and filmmaker, she’s a lively and deeply knowledgeable guide who leads outbacking trips in the mountains, as well as mounted meditation sessions and sunset beach rides to the Green Room through her company Equus Sur.
Where to Shop
Wandering the cobblestone streets of Todos Santos and popping into the local artisan shops is a pleasure in itself; you’ll find everything from Baja hoodie sweatshirts (remarkably appropriate given the cool desert temps in the mornings and evenings) to intricately patterned handwoven textiles. Hilo Rojo, just down the street from Taller 17, offers clothes and curios—all made by Mexican artisans, including whimsical beaded brooches and silk shirts featuring Lotería-inspired patterns. If you’re lucky, shop owner Paola de la Rosa will be there with her pug, Horchata. From there, make your way to artist Fernanda Cov’s bookshop and ceramics studio-slash-gallery, marked by its teal exterior with blue lettering that announces: I Am a Bookshop.
