Ukraine is stricken by war, corruption, and a financial crisis. At its Fashion Weeks, like Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days and this past Ukrainian Fashion Week, the dichotomy between the haves and have-nots is visible and sharp: Wealthy consumers occupy the front rows; young creatives typically struggle financially, but they do compelling work. This economic disparity may be why the Vetements look is so strong here. The Paris brand’s signature hoodie is about three times the average monthly salary of around $300 in Kiev, but the city’s young people can head to a secondhand bazaar and re-create the pricey image on the cheap.
The Vetements influence is quite evident on the catwalk, as well. Take Frolov by Ivan Frolov. For Spring 2017, the designer held his collection at the Soviet-style hotel Salute, a spaceship-looking structure in the center of Kiev and a formal backdrop for his youth-centric clothes. Frolov touched on plenty of current trends: Lurex dresses were reminiscent of Vetements, while sweatsuits had a Gosha Rubchinskiy feel and corset belts à la Prada’s Fall 2016 collection also made a cameo. Frolov likes to incorporate lingerie into his eveningwear. He showed an asymmetrical lace skirt that was quite pretty; that handiwork is his signature and he should keep expanding on that.
Menswear designer Sasha Kanevski expresses his fascination with post-Soviet lifestyles in refreshing ways. Last season’s postapocalyptic cage-fighting set added an element of excitement to his clothes. This time he took suburban boys who spend their free time customizing old cars as his inspiration. Male models pulled up in a medley of looks: a boxy double-breasted trenchcoat, a mustard yellow jumpsuit, and sporty short shorts. A metallic violet asymmetrical windbreaker looked like a hit.
Another name to note is Artem Klimchuk of Artemklimchuk, who based his elegant collection on the glamour of old Soviet films. A rose-print jacket with puffed shoulders was lovely. And pay attention to the label Lake Studio, which traffics in the same kind of artfully embroidered and printed pieces as Gucci. A terrific robe jacket was stitched with a wolf’s head.
On the accessories front, standouts included the sharp belt bags at Lake Studio; chic Maryam Nassir Zadeh–looking slides from the label Ostel; and Brutalist-heeled mules by young shoe designer Ali Saulidi at Przhonskaya. People are going to want to buy Saulidi’s shoes well outside Ukraine, and depending on how he prices them, they may even be the next It shoe that the cool kids of Kiev can mix into their thrifted ensembles.
