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This season, street style at Shanghai Fashion Week has been low-key. The bold looks of the past have given way to a softer aesthetic that’s more layered and feminine, with nods to Chinese culture and history.
This pared-back vibe was also found on the runways. The Samuel Guì Yang show — a schedule highlight that drew an exclusive list of fashion insiders, including former editor and now influencer Ling Wu, industry veteran and consultant Dan Cui, and stylist Lucia Liu — took place with little fanfare on a rooftop on the banks of the Suzhou river. Yang is one of the new wave of designers tapping into ‘new Chinese style’ or the ‘new Chinese chic’ aesthetic, whereby traditional clothing is given a contemporary twist — a trend that continues to sweep the nation. There has also been a more recent move towards a quieter, inward-looking approach to fashion and luxury, amid a government crackdown on influencers who flaunt their wealth on social media.
It’s a big shift from the 1990s, when international labels and logos started to proliferate in China as signifiers of wealth. Things began to change around a decade ago, when Labelhood sprung up as a platform for emerging independent designers, foregrounding the importance of original design in the Chinese fashion ecosystem. This paved the way for new names like Angel Chen (who made a return to the schedule this season after a three-year absence) and Shushu/Tong (now a must-see on the calendar) to explode onto the scene, as well as Yang, whose mandarin collar jacket is now a wardrobe staple for China’s fashion community.
However, there are drawbacks to new Chinese style, says Jisheng Tong, director of the Shanghai Fashion Week (SHFW) organising committee. These range from design homogenisation and excessive commercialisation to cultural misreading. “Our designers need to deeply understand the historical background and cultural implications behind Chinese elements and then they can harness it to become a new cultural phenomenon,” he says.
It wasn’t all pared back at SHFW, either. The Shushu/Tong girls were out in force wearing the brand’s distinctive mix of short girly dresses, immaculate accessories, white tights and Mary Janes. Guests were also seen in Rui’s barely-there sexy aesthetic with exposed bottoms, as well as Oude Waag’s revealing cutouts. A recurring theme is women embracing their femininity and sexuality.
Vogue Business asked SHFW insiders what Chinese style means to them and which designers embody this best.
Yeli Gu, founder and director, Ontimeshow
Young people are full of enthusiasm for learning about Chinese history and culture. Mixing bright and fashionable items with traditional clothing from our dynastic eras is no longer considered old-fashioned. This trend is being showcased from all angles, even in family portraits and picnics. In response, our fashion designers are starting to research deeply the extraction of certain elements and materials from traditional culture to create this new modern style. Angel Chen’s collections are inspired by minority cultures. It is a new form of ancient traditionalism that I believe will be a popular trend that carries on cultural transmission.
Tasha Liu, founder, Labelhood
Ten years ago, Chinese designers wanted to be more international in their vision. But now, they are happy to be from China. We have Samuel Guì Yang, which is very chic in an East-meets-West style, and it’s very popular. It’s playful, philosophical and futuristic. M Essential is focused on craftsmanship. AO Yes is more chilled and sexy, with see-through silks. All of these brands are telling a story about China. There’s no stereotypical Chinese style anymore.
Joyce Bao, eponymous designer
I think Chinese style is contemporary and nostalgic at the same time. We pay attention to trends, but by combining them with something that’s more timeless or elements of past traditions such as craft, an aesthetic or colours, it becomes something entirely new and individualistic. As a new brand, I think it’s also what my collection tries to capture — this blend of what’s current but reminiscent of the past.
Lucia Liu, stylist
A brand like Samuel Guì Yang fully understands the fragility of Chinese beauty. It’s about having a sense of layering and a strong stylistic sensibility that creates a very modern Chinese style.
Youpo Jiang, founder, Möbius Hub
Chinese style right now is entering a new era. Previously a lot of people understood it as chinoiserie, traditional elements or about history. But now it’s modernising, and the world needs to know this too. Chinese style is actually a philosophy and one which needs reviving. Eastern philosophy is so good because it’s not belonging to one era. It is a world view that can apply to everyone. Samuel Guì Yang is a great example of this. In his show, there were these hats or kaftans that were like this Crouching Tiger style but modernised. Wearing these, you can feel like a real badass.
Zemira Xu, founder, Tube Showroom
When I started showing 10 years ago, there was a big luxury trend with logos, say like Japan in the ’90s. But now I can see a change because young people are going abroad more and are becoming more eclectic in their tastes. It’s about presenting who they are — with more attitude. After Covid, a lot of brands are focused on ‘her power’, and this is changing styles for women. Before it was more about cute, unisex or streetwear styles, but I think consumers now want to show off their bodies and their femininity. Streetwear is less popular and few people are into unisex. Young people are more confident and bold in their choices. Now, they want to show off in a powerful way that they are different, even in the workplace where names like Office H and Staffonly are popular.
Congya Zhang, founder, Cypress Communications
Chinese style encompasses a wide range of clothing that reflects both traditional and contemporary influences. Since China has become a significant player in the global fashion industry, major fashion weeks in cities like Shanghai have showcased local and international designers. Designers such as Weiran and Jingwei Yin are pushing the boundaries of Chinese style. They are at the forefront of a cultural movement that reflects both traditional values and modern fashion trends, making a significant contribution to the global fashion landscape.
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