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It’s the dead of winter in Paris and there’s not a single Canada Goose jacket in sight. Also missing are the oversize puffers, the Uniqlo down layers, the snow boots, the earmuffs, and all the other pieces of the cold-weather arsenal pervading the streets of New York during similar temperatures. Instead, Parisians are rushing down their streets in their usual manteaus, even seemingly unfazed by last month’s uncharacteristic arctic blast. Sure, I occasionally catch a glimpse of a fur coat, but they never seem all that warm, especially when paired with the omnipresent baskets—sneakers—the mere sight of which sends chills down to my boot-clad feet. I have to admit that I’m puzzled. Do wine and lovemaking really warm one up from within? Or is there another secret that I’m not privy to?
As it turns out, my theory is not that far off. Unlike our “Netflix and chill” culture of winter hibernation, the French tend to retain their famed joie de vivre on a year-round basis. Whether they’re admiring the latest Shchukin collection at the Fondation Louis Vuitton or sharing a demi-carafe under a heat lamp at the local terrace, Parisians like to stay active during the cold months and won’t sacrifice style when bundling up. “The French woman is not always armed for the cold but she values being chic,” says Chloe Knopfer, designer of Parisian jewelry line Chanael K. In fact, she considers winter to be her favorite sartorial season as it allows her to showcase her most elegant pieces, a sentiment I would never utter about my Canada Goose. So what, exactly, are these chic Parisian winter staples?
The Oversize Knit
The vote is unanimous: it all starts with a great pull. Sized up (or just borrowed from the winter beau’s closet) and styled in a multitude of ways, sweaters are the building blocks that effortless winter style is based on. “I like to spare myself the morning deliberations, so I just make a few variations of the same theme,” says Stéphanie Delpon, cofounder of Parisian creative agency Pictoresq, who usually rotates her multicolored cashmere collection with flared jeans and stacked-heel Isabel Marant booties, occasionally layering a button-down underneath in case of an impending meeting. Parisian designer Camille de Dampierre also loves a strong ’70s look, often pairing an oversize men’s sweater with riding pants and flat over-the-knee boots for a “lazy day” option that is easy but still sexy. Speaking of which, Knopfer notes that many Parisiennes tend to belt their chunky knits to give them a bit more structure and emphasize the silhouette. Apparently, in France, sweaters and sex appeal do mix.
The Statement Coat
Unlike the army of down-jacket-donning Teletubbies that swarm the streets of New York the minute December hits, the French like to cultivate strong outerwear collections that allow them to endure their winter terrace sessions in style. “What’s chic is being warm. Seeing that a person is elegant without sacrificing their comfort,” says Delpon, stressing that a beautiful and warm coat can take on a long way. She swears by her Camille de Dampierre manteau in double-sided Loro Piana cashmere, an instant feel-good piece that happens to be a trusted favorite of the designer herself. Knopfer is a strong proponent of an oversize silhouette that veers more on the masculine side, while fashion buyer Saara Valjakka advises going for a bold color or print that will reduce all other sartorial effort to a bare minimum, citing a leopard-print Stella McCartney coat as her best winter investment to date.
The Fourrure
Almost every Parisienne has a naughty little secret, passionate love affair with a fur coat. And like all great romances, most of these furs have some special meaning behind them. Knopfer treasures her Yves Salomon leopard-print ponyskin coat that’s seen countless Parisian nights, while Delpon shares a special bond with her Isabel Marant shearling, which has accompanied her all the way from Patagonia to Ushuaia. “I love that I don’t need much more than a thin sweater underneath. It makes me feel so powerful,” she adds. Zelda Citroën, designer of Zelda Citroën Turbans, cites her grandfather’s mink-lined cloak as her most treasured possession, although, she admits that she usually sticks to her trusted Yves Salomon army parka, a winter “second skin” that allows her to stay warm while avoiding disapproving stares. Speaking of which, when these taboo-lovers do make their rare public outings, they are presented discreetly, paired with jeans and sneakers to subdue the provocative edge.
The Luxe Accessories
Ever wonder who, exactly, buys cashmere socks? What may seem like the ultimate indulgence is actually a foolproof French trick—and key behind the winter sneaker enigma (aha!). Hedonists to their core, Parisians like to cocoon themselves in the luxurious fabric from head to toe—stocking up on cashmere scarfs, mittens, and beanies to protect them from the ever-changing temperatures. “I have cashmere scarves and stoles in every color; every day I choose one that corresponds best with my mood,” says de Dampierre, who occasionally tops off the look with a classic Borsalino hat. Delpon likes to mix a couple of neutral-toned cashmere Eric Bompard scarves for added warmth, while Citroën, who usually navigates Paris by bike, never leaves the house without her fur-lined mittens and cashmere hat, resorting to her father’s Russian chapka on the coldest of days.
The Unexpected Shoe
“The first thing I picked up on when I moved to Paris is that everybody wears off-season shoes in the winter,” says Valjakka, a Finnish native who has gradually traded in her sturdy Scandinavian boots for an eclectic mix of Nike sneakers and funky Prada loafers. Knopfer also likes to break up feminine looks with “shoes that have more character,” usually going for sneakers or the cool-kid Louis Vuitton rangers by day. Evenings are a different story, providing a chance to indulge in her Stuart Weitzman cuissardes, a Bardot-beloved cult staple that can instantly dial up the mood. She admits that she recently succumbed to this season’s velvet trend, splurging on a pair of Miu Miu velvet booties, that has made getting dressed that much more enjoyable. And isn’t that sometimes enough to warm one up from within?
Marina Khorosh is the author of DbagDating.com.
