The dress code for Albus Lumen’s resort 2026 collection, which marked the brand’s 10th anniversary, was “Black Tie,” and seeing the fashion show attendees decked out in their finest was a testament to how beloved Marina Afonina is. The love is mutual, of course, and it was a big part of her show; the cast included industry friends, the designer herself, and even her son and mother. “I’ve had so many supporters from the beginning—and my mom was my number-one muse growing up, she was always in fashion and loved dressing up,” she said backstage. “I just wanted to give some love to my people.” After the show she formed a receiving line backstage, kissing and hugging every model that had just walked the runway.
The collection was just as steeped in the language of love, with lots of sheer layers, cheeky polka dots, and sumptuous embellishments. “This year I turned 45 and I’m going through lots of changes, which is fine, but it’s also given me some self-awareness,” she explained. “I watched the Truman Capote and the Swans show and became obsessed with how the ladies were so groomed and elevated and elegant and I thought ‘Oh, that’s the stage I’m in. I’m a lady. That’s how I want to be as a lady!’”
It’s probably how a lot of women (and some men!) would like to be ladies: wearing “very Brigitte Bardot”-esque polka dot chiffon underwear (the old-school, full-coverage cut of the bottoms is the only way to wear sheer skirts and dresses! Do not be fooled otherwise!); white pleated silk pants with baby tees and silk duster coats; mini dresses embroidered with pearls and fabric rosettes; and little tunics made from velvet crochet. Models walked around the space wearing fabulous hats from the milliner Jonathan Howard, and were mostly barefoot or in little sheer socks, which added a very soigné feeling to the whole thing. The secret to being a lady, according to Afonina, seems to be to just… relax in pearls and silk, and why argue with that?
