“The aim of this collection is to position ourselves as a fashion label. We are more than just ‘the ones with the sweater,’” said Sezgin Kivrim during his recent presentation, looking at the eight models next to him wearing his new collection. To understand what he means, we need to take a brief look back to last year.
September 2024, Vogue’s first Forces of Fashion event in Berlin was coming up, and I was looking for an outfit by a local designer to wear. At the time, a nasty debate about deportations was raging in Germany. Kivrim, a graduate of the renowned UdK (University of the Arts) in Berlin, repeatedly referenced his Kurdish heritage in his fashion; the Kurdish diaspora in Germany is one of the largest in the world. I visited him in his studio, had him explain his work in more detail, and finally chose a crochet sweater that featured the Kurdish flag. I wore the sweater to our event, and photos of me in it alongside prominent figures such as Anna Wintour, Edward Enninful, Winnie Harlow, Francesco Risso, and Paloma Elsesser were posted on social media. What was meant as a subtle sign on my part, as a gesture of local support, sparked a wave of enthusiasm for the sweater within the Kurdish community worldwide, and it was even reported on a Kurdish news show in Australia. The sweater became famous.
For Kivrim, this is now both a blessing and a curse, because even though the sweater made the label more known, Sezgin wants to show his full range as a designer and not be reduced to one garment. The collection he is now presenting in Berlin is the starting point.
Kivrim now works with a partner: He and Angelina Schwarzkopf have been friends for over 10 years and share the tasks. In theory, he does the design and she takes care of the operational side, but in reality, they both do everything, and they are particularly proud that the new collection reflects both of their aesthetics.
There are only eight looks, which have been carefully chosen and are following the style of the brand: Kivrim has worked with mesh in the past, and so there are now several garments made from this material, such as a dress in a very light pastel pink, which is held together at the top by a thin strap with a diagonal cut across the back. The other strap is extra-long and wider and is worn around the neck as a thin scarf. The skirt part of the dress has ruffles.
Gathers are important in the label’s design language; Kivrim likes the drape of the material. Gathers are also incorporated into the sleeves of an oversized, loose-fitting crochet sweater. Crochet is another big theme for the brand. It is inspired by a striped sweater he owned as a child, and the sweater is in the same light powder tone as the mesh dress. “The color palette came first,” said Schwarzkopf, “we limited the collection to a few colors.” These are now black, dark blue, and red, in addition to the powder shade. “The red is a reference to my Kurdish heritage,” explained Kivrim. “It symbolizes suffering in the flag. That should not be forgotten amid all the lightness that our fashion is supposed to have.”
Another prominent reference to his heritage is the sun, which can also be seen on the Kurdish flag. On the subject of the sun: The name of the current collection is “counting sunsets at midnight,” which is the Kurdish version of counting sheep to fall asleep. How poetic! Unlike in previous collections, where the sun was integrated in striking yellow, it is now embroidered (by hand, of course) with red thread on a black sleeveless vest or in small brass-milled suns dangling from a dark blue top, which is also available in a mini dress version with straps.
The collection has a relaxed vibe: cheerful, light, fun, almost party outfits. The most impressive garment could almost be overlooked; it’s a pair of black pants that are very wide cut, but sit on the hips thanks to a belt, with the excess fabric gathered into decorative pleats. In full-length and bermuda versions, they add an interesting tailoring element to the mix.
Potential customers may like to have a jacket to go with them, but Kivrim and Schwarzkopf deliberately wanted to keep the collection small. They are just starting and trying to figure out what sells. Primarily they are interested in broader accessibility for those outside the Kurdish community and in striking the right balance between cultural references and fashion, but also in sustainability. “We prefer fewer pieces, but local and good quality, with fair pay within the supply chain,” Kivrim says.
The brand Sezgin has great potential. The well-thought-out pieces, the love for details and crochet, the tailoring, and of course the overall aspect of gender-fluid pieces. One thing is certain: Sezgin can do more than viral sweaters.
