“Elevated” and “more adult” is how Charlotte Eskildsen described her fall Garment collection. “We did more dresses, more for parties as well,” she added. It almost had to have all these qualities given the location: the ballroom in Moltke’s Mansion (Moltkes Palæ), with chandeliers hanging over the parquet floors and elaborate plasterwork illustrating different trades (as the Association of Craftsmen in Copenhagen acquired the site in 1930). And it so happened that HRH Princess Isabella was in the audience. The themes of the wall decorations dovetailed nicely with Esklidsen’s decision to double down on quality and make. (The designer is now flying solo, as Sophia Roe, who was previously in charge of visuals, has decided to concentrate on other projects.)
The Garment has always provided a contemporary take on classics, usually with a ’90s twist. Eskildsen also has an obsession with well-cut pants. This season, the aesthetic might be described as rich with touches that are both elegant (long organza gloves that fit over coat sleeves) and fun (chunky knits in fire-engine red and extra-pointy collars). A pant-less look nodded to the trend set by Miu Miu, and a biker jacket paired with a short bubble hem skirt touched lightly and nicely on the ’80s theme that’s been popping up. But the main focus here, said Eskildsen, was “to dare a little more.” All in all, that translated into upping the volume on a quiet luxury look.
