Mid-century is the lingua franca of Scandinavian interior and furniture design, which is sometimes translated into fashion. The Garment’s Charlotte Eskildsen, who speaks this language, presented her fall collection of “classics” at the Langelinie Pavilion, built in 1958 by architect Eva Koppel, whose personal style the designer seemed to appreciate as much as the architect’s work.
Stepping lively, the first look out was a navy cape coat with capacious white pants and loafers from the brand’s first shoe collection. There were coats aplenty in this collection, many shown with matching scarves. These were made using either double-face wool, leather, faux fur, or a fur-look material that was actually a many-layered, raw-edged fabric. More experimental were long capes that were slightly torqued, much like the sculptures that lined the runways.
It was difficult to find Koppel’s “quiet modernism” in some elements of the collection, such as the ski sweaters worn with fun knit leggings and the light silk dresses that clung to the body, some trimmed with lace. It was there, however, in an ensemble consisting of a brown leather bomber jacket and sturdy herringbone tweed trousers, which was a take off on what Meg Ryan wore in 1981’s Rich and Famous. It’s a look that had nonchalance at the same time it gave the impression that it would work as hard as the woman wearing it.
