The location of Nicklas Skovgaard’s show, a film studio, suggested the Dane was ready for a star turn, and the fall collection was indeed the designer’s most polished and infectious yet. Skovgaard had decided, he explained, to “take all the elements that I’ve had for a long time and sort of rethink them into new versions,” rather than starting from scratch, and all of his -isms—dramatic shapes, ’80s references, a touch of kitsch, a generous sprinkling of charm, and an element of surprise—were on display. The difference was, by choosing a traditional-ish runway, the drama was in the clothes not the story or style of presentation around them.
Newness was present from look one, a sort of toy soldier outfit, black feathery hat topping a sort of chess pawn dress with a jersey back and a structured rectangular front decorating tiers of soft eyelashes of fabric. There was a sense of armor in the chunky-knit sweater in the second look, and later on a jacket paired with side-fringed leggings evoked a medieval page. Pageantry was one form that drama took this season, others were volume (see the yeti-sized faux fur coat), and frivolity (a slim dress with a flirty skating skirt in teal and black, a favorite ’80s color-block combo).
Skovgaard didn’t disappoint the fans of his drop-waisted jersey slink dresses; the tie front was a nice evolution of the style. The elongated natural waist was seen on a green coat with a wide knit middle, and on a floaty, asymmetric white ensemble with wires holding the skirt volume. A pink pouf skirt was delicious eye candy which met its sonic equivalent in the much-talked about live performance by local band Fame Hunter.
Skovgaard’s universe isn’t all spun sugar though; this season the designer wanted to show some range. “People are always [asking],” he said, “‘How do you go on your bike in this in Copenhagen?’ I think a lot of the pieces that I’ve done previously might be quite difficult to go on your bike with, but in this collection, we have a big jacket that you can wear with your own skirt or your own jeans.” If you’re in the market for simple drama, this Dane’s got you covered—but more than that, Skovgaard is representative of a young, infectious spirit in fashion.
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