Julie and Marie Skall’s fall show was one for the seasons—literally. The brand is in expansion mode, and for the first time the duo were designing, and showing, pre-collection looks alongside fall ones. This explains how something like a short-sleeved embroidered top clearly meant for warm days was included among options more appropriate for cold weather—like a tweed coat, a shearling jacket with toggle closures, or cozy knit. And if you care to, in several months time, with the help of the sisters’ forthcoming knitting book, you’ll be able to make some of those sweaters at home for yourself.
The Skalls really have been busy; the sneakers in the show were a collaboration with Keen, and they added an unexpected “gorp” element to the styling, undercutting—in a positive way—some of the prettiness of the ultra femme prairie dresses. The slingbacks were made in partnership with Arteana and they contributed to a conservative and “lady” like element in the collection, which found its strongest expression in button-front jackets.
Not every collection needs to tell a story, but the lack of a theme made the show feel directionless. That doesn’t mean there weren’t beautiful pieces—there were—or that the designers need to bow to trends, but it was difficult to figure out in what way the Skalls wanted us to understand how their designs connect to how we are living and wanting to look right now, rather than to the general brand story.
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