Stine Goya unintentionally gamified the design process for fall. She and her team took the Enneagram personality test and, intrigued by the results, built a collection around three types to which different motifs were assigned. Roses for the sentimental individualist, stripes for the layered achiever and shells for the uniform perfectionist. Asked where she ended up on the continuum, Goya said “I’m mostly the achiever and the perfectionist, [but] I think I’m actually in between all of them.”
At menswear several designers explored different types of masculinity, here the focus was softer, and you could read the collection corresponding to different facets of one personality. This is one of the most relaxed Goya collections in some time, though that is difficult to discern from the lookbook images, which focus on the dressier aspects of the offering. Knitwear, which was a brand identifier early on, was really strong. There were a series of chunky hand-knits, one with a bouquet of roses, and a charming cardigan with dimensional knit shells embellished with pearls. The color-blocked cardigan that you see with the khaki pants is actually one piece that looks like two. Charming—and detachable—knit collars featured on jackets, a highlight being a navy puffer with upholstery-like tufting and a green collar.
As to tailoring, Goya was wearing a black jacket that riffed on pearlies’ attire. A long single breasted coat in black had sleeves in a fancy metallic material that folded back at the cuffs to reveal lining stripes. That seemingly offhand gesture offset (in a good way) the fanciness this piece would have otherwise had. That’s a sweet spot it would be nice to see more of.
