With a measured and serene collection set to the sweet sounds of Christine and the Queens’ “Shine,” Mark Kenly Domino Tan designer Caroline Engelgaar transformed the Glyptotek Musuem’s sculpture grounds into a Zen garden. Within the brand, this collection was like the calm after the storm. Following the departure of the house founder, Engelgaar, who had worked with Tan, created last season’s collection somewhat on the fly. Since then she’s assembled a skilled team and developed a made-to-order atelier offering alongside the ready-to-wear, and she continues to build upon the house aesthetic. Of this lineup the designer said: “It’s simple even though it’s really rich in terms of the fabric. A lot of the things are maybe a bit more feminine than what Mark did, but I think it’s still casual in a couture way.”
The opening looks, dresses with asymmetric hems in a silk/technical mix, which had a stiffness not usually seen at the house, seemed to nod to Cristóbal Balenciaga, but Englegaar explained that these, as well as other elements were actually inspired by the Haenyeo, who were female Korean pearl divers. With the garden setting and the chaste prettiness of some of the outfits, one would never guess that the team was preoccupied with the sea this season, but wavy hems and ripple-like peplums were indeed patterned after waves. Pearls are also watery treasures. Mixed in among the more formal dresses were easier looks made in shirting fabrics for women; the counterparts for men were cotton pajama-like pieces. Many of the former were styled with headscarves and the effect ranged from “fashion nun” to rustic.
Tailoring remains the heart of MKDT, and you couldn’t go wrong with a cropped blazer or a collarless linen coat in sand with a richness akin to softest suede. It was rainy in Copenhagen, and one imagines if the side-buttoned trench with cape-sleeves had been in store it would have sold out. A men’s Mac featured patch pockets. A slope shouldered suit with long shorts, worn with flats, was an untraditional take on masculine suiting, elegant but not stuffy. Engelgaar was after a gentlemanly feeling, and for women, a ladylike one. The “too casual [look] is not really me,” she said laughingly. “One of the things that distinguishes the brand is that you really do make an effort [to get dressed] and everything is really thoughtful.” And, it should be added, extremely desirable, especially with those who prefer their minimalism with a Danish twist.
