In an effort, perhaps, to escape forever being known as the designer of Björk s Oscars swan dress, Macedonian-born, London-based designer Marjan Pejoski fled the scene of the crime, as it were, and staged his Fall 2002 collection in Paris.
While Pejoski s beaded re-creation of Indian erotica recalled the designer s Spring 2001 collection (which featured Disney cartoon characters in pornographic poses), this show was rated PG. Suede anklets and boots gave a Peter Pan feel to coats and dresses that bloomed with embroidered foliage, flowers and butterfly wings. Pejoski s signature beadwork added some flash throughout, while patchwork jackets looked like they had been crafted by a savage child with a natural gift for needlework. The collection was strongest when it combined whimsy with discipline, as in the navy man-sized, sleeveless jacket embroidered with water lilies.
Though Pejoski s collection was very much attuned to London s current Lord of the Rings fixation, it nonetheless marked a development in the designer s career, showing that he could deliver a signature collection without gimmicks.
