The huge inflatable rabbit and elephant that took up catwalk space echoed Jeff Koons cartoonish Pop Art. But, aside from the fast-food jewelry (hamburger and hot dog pendants, anyone?), it wasn t entirely clear what that had to do with Kim Jones latest collection. In fact, the designer seemed to be moving his signature activewear way upmarket.
Jones has fallen for an A-line silhouette. It looked cool as a cape-backed jacket paired with tailored sweatpants. The smartest pieces, though, were the fruit of a collaboration with London tailor Timothy Everest, which produced items as striking as the broad-shouldered coat that opened the show and a three-piece pinstripe suit (with the jacket a blouson).
The designer introduced a new graphic quality to his knitwear with Navajo motifs and trompe effects (like a tie knitted into a white sweater). But his diehard fans will more likely be drawn to a shirt (labeled as "punk style") with a bondage-strapped back. They ll also love the show s closer, a goosedown-padded shirt-and-sweatpant combo that made its wearer look like a teenage Michelin Man.
