Eadweard Muybridge s plates of birds in flight were the lofty starting point for Jasmin Shokrian s second New York outing. And while the references were hardly literal—there were thankfully no feathers trailing from her unfinished edges—they did leave one editor cracking wise, something about Edith Head s Hitchcock suits after "the birds" had gotten to them.
To be fair, Shokrian s asymmetrically drapey sheaths, cocooning jackets, and hobble skirts with tucked hems played squarely into fashion s current fascination with volume, and were only a shade more deconstructed than her well-received debut of a year ago. But layered as they were with what she referred to in her program notes as capelets and collars (dickeys, essentially), they came off as just too tricky.
That s not to say there weren t some high-concept standouts. A circular cardigan in wool jersey called upon Shokrian s sculptural talents. And her fabrics looked rich, especially a charcoal silk crepe folded and pleated into a knee-length dress that was memorable for its relative simplicity.
