Leave it to an Italian to make a New York fashion week presentation feel like a party. With Alberta Ferretti s short and sweet Fall Philosophy show playing on a frequent loop, the crowd of editors and familiar social faces at the Eyebeam gallery was free to take in the wares, have a drink, and mingle at an unhurried—let s call it Mediterranean—pace. The 23-look collection revolved mostly around the juxtaposition of boyish tailored coats (these in navy wool and tweed) and girlishly sexy little dresses. "It s a new way to coordinate the masculine and the feminine," explained Ferretti. "It s the mix that s interesting." In its many variations, Ferretti s outerwear had terrific appeal, but the lion s share of attention went to the dresses. These were in fact ingenious ensembles of separate pieces—say, a velvet apron dress worn over a sequined tulle slip. With all the black lace, there was a distinct boudoir feel, but Ferretti dispelled any sordid notions. "My customer is open in her sensuality," she said. "But I don t like the too-aggressive woman." Sex-tape starlets, take heed.
