The infamous Hitchcock women silhouettes were the main source of inspiration for the fall 2024 collection of Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini. Being fascinated by how they looked (not only their looks), Serafini worked on volumes that came from the past, referencing their appearance as “neatness.” Even if the immediate reference was the ’50s, with the ample volumes, Serafini wanted to quote that decade with no literal intent, instead updating the aesthetic through a modern approach based on the use of innovative and contemporary fabrics.
A Japanese neoprene, printed in Italy, recalled traditional woolen textures in a trompe l’oeil effect and had the additional purpose of “polluting” womenswear with male wardrobe staples. This was the material for egg-shaped overcoats and separates in dark tones like gray and brown. Next to these more stiff proposals was the fluidity of elastic and transparent jerseys that enveloped the body with a sinuous movement for which Serafini applied the same optical illusion, quoting the past with the innovation of contemporaneity. Coats were also proposed in coated wool—resembling patent leather for its brightness—in a vintage homage, amplified by white contrasting collars.
The only literal reference—to Hitchcock’s Psycho—was represented by a short strapless dress in duchesse, intentionally built as a towel to evoke the iconic shower scene. This duchesse brightened up the last part of the collection through overcoats, wrap skirts, tops, and dresses all styled for a color-block effect. An identical role was played by the accessories: lace-ups, pumps, and big pochettes in those recurring saturated tones.
