The crimped hair and the soundtrack from the glam, disco-era seventies put Roksanda Ilincic s audience in a good mood—not an easy thing to swing on a wet weekday afternoon. The clothes, too, made for the kind of viewing that lets a woman lower her hackles and relax while imagining what she might look like at some party or other in the fall. Ilincic s attraction is that she s a woman designer who goes out a lot, and knows that the easiest things sometimes work best. Her confidence and accomplishment in spinning a bolt of fabric around the body and fastening it with a single seam is growing season by season, and the addition of matte gray jersey to her signature fluid charmeuse silhouettes looked good.
What s new this season is the stealthy broadening of her vocabulary into items that could, for the first time, be construed as daywear. She s branched into floppy crepe blouses (which chime nicely with the season s feel for luxe sportswear) and a few pieces of outerwear. A couple of sweeping bouclé coats with fox sleeves and a belted jacket recall the panache of forties actresses hurrying to work on the MGM lot. A little glamour for everyday? No harm in that.
