As a design MO it s hard to go wrong surrounding yourself with fashionable girlfriends and making them what they want. Lately, Milan Vukmirovic s pals have been moving away from the rock n roll aesthetic that influenced his Spring lineup for Trussardi 1911 and looking more toward Paris in the seventies for inspiration. Think Jane Birkin or Romy Schneider in fitted flares with a short, slightly military-influenced coat over a feminine silk blouse.
Updates on these classics have been appearing on lots of other runways this season, but women looking for a new, unexpected resource could do worse than hitting up this recently resuscitated nearly 100-year-old Italian brand. Vukmirovic worked his slim silhouette in a multitude of want-able fabrics: oversize houndstooth (he uses the French term pied-de-poule, which translates to "chicken feet"), Lurex-shot bouclé, ladylike double-face cashmere in heathery shades of camel and gray, and edgier leather-coated tweed. Some of the bags have a bit too much Chanel and Hermès in them, but the designer has other temptations in store, mostly in the form of statement-making outerwear. A horizontally pleated and ruched black leather jacket, a sheepskin coat-dress with an undulating zipper that opens and closes from both the top and bottom, and a collarless A-line jacket in lamb fur dyed a subtly chic shade of café au lait—those all have serious It potential.
