A recent New York Times article put the spotlight on Zac Posen s recession-induced financial woes. It hasn t been easy for a still-smallish business like his to survive the great retail panic of the last 18 months. In that, of course, he s hardly alone. Today, Posen was back at the modest Altman Building for a second season in a row, and clothing-wise he seemed to be cutting back still further for Fall. There wasn t a single gown on the runway. That must be tough for a designer in love with ball skirts and shoulder flourishes, but in their absence, he injected more than a fair bit of showmanship into the sportswear; colorful furs; and short, flirty party dresses that were this upbeat collection s focus.
Posen gave his pantsuits a forties flair, putting contrasting cuffs and lapels along with strong shoulders on cropped jackets and pinning a brooch to the waistbands of his full-legged, fluid trousers. There was also a sweet little ice-skating dress in dove gray jersey with a silk wool skirt. If he s still trying to establish an identity for his daywear and not exactly succeeding, Posen is much more confident when it comes to evening. This season he s thinking short and pink, because, hey, wallflowers aren t his type. In New York, at least, the recession hasn t really managed to put a dent in the late-night scene. His corseted minidresses will find happy homes indeed with the party-hopping set.
