Acne may have its big-boy bona fides in order—international distribution, its own literary journal, the occasional show in Kensington Palace, even a much-touted collaboration with Lanvin before its fellow Swedes at H&M reached the atelier d Elbaz—but it s always pitched itself as the label of guys just wanna have fun. And then its Fall collection emphasizes the suit?
"It s just a feeling, you know," creative director Jonny Johansson shrugged after the show. "All the tailoring—I thought that was in the moment, something fresh. I m tired of all this heritage, the older models or whatever. It s time for something young."
That translated into a series of overcoats paired with suit pants, as well as the two-piecers themselves. The idea of a man s first suit is one that s been gripping other designers during this very sartorial season—Kris Van Assche, for example, was mulling it, too. It s also good business, especially at Acne s relatively modest price point: The suit revolution of the past few years has trickled down to the younger generation, and it s labels like Acne to which they ll turn.
The Acne cut is youthful, with slightly cropped pants and low-buttoning jackets in different styles (single- and double-breasteds, standard lapels and shawl collars), all in Italian bonded wool. The hitch is that, on the runway at least, they can look a little flat, even when pepped up by accents of raspberry, royal blue, or teal. "It s the way they dress," Johansson said of his clientele. "It s that moment when you re not grown up and at the same time, not a kid. The kind of sexual energy that brings." Keep looking down, to the boys shiny patent Chelsea boots, and you could get a better sense of the signature Acne charge.
