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Its Tokyo fashion show having been canceled due to the Japan earthquake and its aftermath, Gap s Patrick Robinson showed the new Fall collection by appointment yesterday in the label s Tribeca headquarters. In that low-key setting, the designer pointed out some of the details he is using to help elevate the brand. With its black pants program well established, he s now employing menswear fabrics like Prince of Wales checks and pinstripes that look and (this is key) feel more expensive than their $79 price tags. Also new, an of-the-moment cropped flare that indicates Robinson is keeping his eyes on the runways. Proof that he s got his ear to the ground, i.e., the streets, is a new leather group. Calling leather "the new denim," he showed off leggings, five-pocket pants, a pencil skirt, and an A-line shift with a whiff of the sixties.

Rounding out the mix were "heritage meets modern" pieces, the kind of staples you expect from Gap, but with some surprising touches. The cables on a sweater were askew, the plaid button-down was sheer, and the khakis were denim-washed for a faded, lived-in look. As for the denim that the company is famous for, Robinson will show that in a more formal presentation later this Spring. The men s collection followed the same story lines; overall, the big news for the boys was a slimmer, closer-to-the-body fit. Some menswear designers have been experimenting with looser proportions on the runways, but slim, Robinson explained, is "what the guys are asking for."