Showgoers at Louise Gray, particularly those taking in her Pop-arty carnival of color, embellishment, and texture for the first time, might be surprised at the designer s post-show assessment. "I was trying to think more of a wardrobe of what a woman wants," Gray said backstage, her hair newly dyed an icy pink. "Like the jumpers and the different coats that you can wear to various occasions. I think it really looks like a wardrobe."
True enough, those fab color-blocked and deconstructed Aran pullovers and cardigans are the very first things you d extract from the ensembles of Koons-esque balloon hats (a second collaboration with Nasir Mazhar), padded harness bustiers, and tribal-by-way-of-Glasgow fringed skirts. The second: the cozy-cool tartan mohair bombers, for day, and perhaps car coats covered with fat gold-foil dots (a spot of overlap with Marc Jacobs earlier this week), for evening.
Both are rooted in Gray s Scottish heritage, but both are done her way. (Also, check out Nicholas Kirkwood s high-heeled harlequin take for Pollini on the wellie.) Gray s textile-design training shone through here. On the mohair, she layered pixelated and blown-up plaid patterns, and when she used classic tartan wools, she overprinted them with bright checkers. Elsewhere, she used smocking to add a third dimension.
The collection was named Up Your Look, a double entendre that either connotes an upgrade or suggests that Gray is going to do what she does, and if you don t like it, you know where you can put it. It s just that rebel spirit that makes her work so much fun to see.
