The gaúchas, or cowgirls, of Rio Grande do Sul (Brazil s southernmost state) were the inspiration for Carlos Miele s Fall show. Miele, a Brazilian, has always drawn from his country s rich heritage, but this collection, more than others, felt especially indebted to a specific people and place. A prelude of Latin beats spun by the Brazilian brothers Anthony and Sean Souza (sons of Carlos, the popular, long-serving Valentino public relations executive) set the mood, and then the first look out dropped the audience squarely in cattle country. A pair of cropped and roomy crepe pants and a soft wool poncho came topped with a flat, black bolero.
The pants would have been perfect for horseback riding, and the cape was inset with a wide band of patterned woven silk. The geometric interweaving on the cape was Miele s interpretation of the region s traditional embroideries, but the hat, like a few textiles used throughout the show, was a real-deal gaúcha original. With the mood thus established, Miele promptly riffed on the theme, sending out über-chic daywear and evening gowns that would feel out of place, to say the least, among livestock.
For night, the idea of banded embroidery translated into a cocktail dress made of horizontal strips of thinly spaced silk. The ribbons, azure blue, were attached to a nude tulle underlay, and they moved apart as the model walked, creating the impression of a Venetian blind peeking open and shut. Sexy, it got a sophisticated boost from the delicately beaded bolero worn with it. The boleros were a highlight, and their assured simplicity made up for the too-shiny lamé on some dresses and the riot of treatments on another (draped pleats and fringe and metal coin appliqués, for example). But a more-is-more attitude is a central part of this brand s DNA, and Miele succeeded in creating the requisite sense of luxury without going over the top. He obviously felt at home this season. The pampas were a sweet place to set up shop.
