Dirk Bikkembergs is determined to put himself on the women s fashion map. He has an uphill road ahead of him. Ask a women s editor who he is, and you re likely to get a: "Isn t he the guy that puts athletes in underwear?" As a matter of fact, yes. But he was also a member of the Antwerp Six, reminded his newly installed creative director, Paola Toscano, at a presentation today. Her plan, she explained, is to bring some edge to his sporty schtick. You saw it in a fitted motorcycle jacket with heavy-duty zips, as well as in molded leather peplums that snapped onto the waists of sleeveless silk dresses. For the most part, though, this was a collection of snappy sportswear, in the bright green of football pitches, marigold yellow, purple, and blue. The highlight was a thickly striped sweatshirt with short sleeves and low armholes that gave it an urban spin. Toscana wasn t breaking new ground, but with that look, she landed on something that could connect with the tough women s crowd.
