The Fall Rochas show was a swirling kaleidoscope of graphic, geometric prints inspired by the pottery of the Swedish ceramicist Wilhelm Kage. Designer Marco Zanini collects his pieces; still, he was surprised when he found himself using them in his own work. He usually starts with an image of a woman or a movie.
Well, the change did him good. Despite what Zanini called the collection s "certain disregard for quiet good taste," there were many good, wearable pieces for both day and evening. Unlike his show for Spring, which had a formal fifties couture look, this one had a cooler seventies vibe. Jacquard pants were deeply flared and nearly grazed the floor despite the models stacked heel sandals. And the collection s "ugly" prints (including those on the clashing tights) reminded some in the crowd of nineties Prada, when Miuccia herself was taking a closer look at the seventies. Zanini was extra proud that they were painted by hand, without the use of a computer. An interlocking diamond pattern that looked like stained glass on a button-down shirt and on matching flares was particularly compelling.
However, it wasn t all prints, all the time. A mustard ribbed sweater (one of the collection s many excellent knits) was paired with silk pants in a slightly different shade of yellow, giving the eyes a chance to rest. Zanini s finale ball gowns came in warm fall colors like that, but not before he sent out a trio of floor-length dresses fearlessly enlivened with pattern. Who needs good taste?
