Having placed the neo-Rochas woman in context, first in the boudoir and then at the beach, Alessandro Vigilante seems finally more at ease taking her to a ball. Not surprising, given his own background as a dancer.
“It’s all about good times with good people, dancing, and not taking things too seriously, with a touch of lightness,” the designer said. “Modern dressing means not following trends.”
Even if this collection was inspired by one of the 20th century’s legendary balls—a soiree hosted by Hélène Rochas—the looks had a lighter feel, perhaps because Vigilante finally gave himself a little more freedom.
Even so, archival references abounded in cocoon shapes, round sleeves, strong shoulders, and square necklines, variously in shimmery lace, Lurex, silk, satin, and wool. The collection converged around the swan, a nod to the Bird dress designed by Marcel Rochas in 1934; a favorite Art Deco–era folding screen from Hélène’s apartment; and, of course, her socialite status. Some looks pushed that metaphor to an extreme: for example, a chocolate jacket with black furry feather sleeves and black-and-white flats with beak yellow points.
But what worked best here was much more subtle. Vigilante knows how to cut a sharp jacket—simple and white with a dropped lapel or in gold jacquard as crunchy as a chocolate wrapper—and has a way with opulent colors and textures. With a bit of parsing, the collection yielded some real-world options, like sharp trousers or an hourglass dress. For the more daring dressers out there, a pencil skirt came jazzed up with a sinuous ruffle—though some pieces might have fared better without so many feathers.
One none-too-subtle flourish was a matchbook motif; its suggestion of flames tied the fall collection in with images for the brand’s latest perfume, a fruity floral called Audace. That scent likewise revisits past glories, picking up on a ’70s hit and recontextualizing it for a new generation. It’s worth noting that Rochas perfumes generated about $45 million in sales last year, and yet it remains the smallest brand in Interparfums’s nearly billion-dollar portfolio. Clearly, the opportunity is there. But the brand—and its designer—is going to have to move beyond its history if it wants to really take wing.
