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"It s based on an If I murdered my husband, this is the suit I d wear to court kind of thing," said Tocca designer Emma Fletcher at the brand s presentation. It took no great leap to imagine the reformed Roxie Hart shimmying into Tocca s black silk dress with inset diamonds of burnout velvet. Or perhaps she d prefer the "Who, me?" ensemble of a lingerie pink silk cami spliced with French lace, shown tucked into a blush pink, calf-length A-line skirt with matching blazer.

On the more modern side was a lambskin leather dress with a fishnetlike panel over the chest that came from the Carlo Mollino photographs Fletcher s been looking at, and some silky spaghetti-strapped slips of dresses. But best of all were the cover-ups. Coats, including a double-breasted herringbone number with leather-trimmed chevron pockets and a more formal black princess-seamed option, looked substantial enough to weather the current and any future storms. The overall effect was consistently Tocca: more vintage than pioneering, but just the sort of reserved yet seductive clothes that many women love to wear.