Costume National was once known for the consistency of its approach, but today s show seemed to inhabit an obscure aesthetic hinterland where Prada touches Cavalli, and neither feels particularly happy about it. True, one bottle green fur-lapelled coat was sumptuous and touched with a jolt of libertine swagger. But the Duran Duran high-hemmed beige suit with a south-of-the-navel cluster of double-breasted buttons that came three looks before it had already rocked the audience into a state of silhouette anxiety that developed into a recurrent affliction. Knit T-shirts can just about work, but with a turtleneck worn under a polo neck we re in a symphony of wrong. The rainbow-refracting, crystal-dotted trucker jacket was something you d expect to see at a brasher label, not one that has been described as Italy s Helmut Lang. Costume National designer Ennio Capasa just didn t seem to have his usual tight control of his rock n roll influences today.
