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This Costume National collection had some melodically arresting touches: the pinstripe in a shirtless three-piece that occasionally snapped like a guitar string, and an all-white angelic biker look via fringed key chains, sleeves, and bags. There was plenty of raffish, rockish, roguish, skinny-ish shirting and tailoring—and you can t argue with the impact of a scarlet suit. The chisel-tipped winkle-pickers were fine frontman footwear. Discordant, especially when viewed from the back, was the silhouette of a high-hemmed, cinched trench in a powerful blue over black bell-bottoms. The black biker pants intersected by panels of red and white at the knee jarred, yet the matching satin printed pants and grandad-collar shirt seemed elegantly consistent with designer Ennio Capasa s troubadour template. In his notes, Capasa said, "I worked on melting many of the elements that always inspired me, slightly balancing them in a different way." And this slight rebalancing of his always-there elements made for an entertaining enough watch.