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"It s like an urban warrior—taking camouflage out of a military context and putting him into the city. It s a guy on a bike, not a guy with a gun." This was Kris Van Assche s excellent summation of his collection. The subsidiary detail is that Van Assche appropriated the eye-confounding patterns of camouflage, blew them up, and used them as decoration in myriad manners. The upshot was that, rather than protecting you from exposing yourself, Van Assche s camo deterred invisibility.

The thesis was expressed as plain, irregular-shaped panels on suits, swirling knitwear, and shiny parkas. For those urban warriors who want to go dark, Van Assche presented un-dazzled pieces, too—although any sensitive streetwear spotter would have noted the sneakers in a heartbeat, as well as the mod-touched Fred Perry collar flashes. There were some alarmingly desirable clothes here. Even when built for going under the radar, Van Assche s work emits a signal.