Is Ermanno Scervino doing…flats? You looked twice at the models strutting on the catwalk during his show today, just to make sure fashion fatigue hadn t hit you hard enough to blur your vision. But no, those were actually masculine bicolored lace-ups—as flat as can be—worn with a tailored black Le Smoking. Still, the shoes were heavily embellished, and a puff of filmy French lace seemed to sprout up from a sheer blouse, so it was apparent that Scervino s über-feminine style and love for glamour were still in place. This was confirmed by a series of looks featuring a very womanly silhouette. The dresses came with tiny, cinched waists blossoming into ballerina skirts whipped up like a soufflé. The coats were sumptuous in mink and astrakhan—they seemed ready to be wrapped around the shoulders of a purring Italian diva. Elsewhere, a more modern feel came from military accents and some masculine/feminine play.
Corsets and tops with crystal embellishments galore were paired with houndstooth wool coats and dresses with geometric fur intarsia. To add to the luxe, there was a couture-ish version of a sporty duvet coat: White and voluminous, it hid a stiff corset inserted at the waist to make its shape round and sexy, enhancing the hips for an undulating, sensual walk.
