Note to J-P: The problem with giving us such a vim-filled and thematically focused press release—including the excellent line "hail the awesome symmetry and terrifying beauty of fighter jets"—plus a pre-model preamble that featured air-raid sirens and the shifting glare of spotlights, is that it rather primes the audience to expect explosively aeronautical clothes. But these were not that.
So let s eject the mouth and focus on the trousers. Braganza likes a fold, has an eye for drape, and pulled off some pleasant origami detailing on a series of maroon-ish dresses that sometimes veered via dégradé to gray and were occasionally ill-served by matching leather opera gloves. You can t see in the gallery, but many of them had old-school Victoria Beckham-y top-to-hem gold zippers down the spine. An aubergine Aran knit midi dress worn with a high-waist biker and black leather thigh-highs featured a wholesomely provocative brace of thigh slashes. There was a bit of Top Gun-ery in a print used on angle-sleeved loose tops and pants, a flyby of aviators, and more abstractly, in the gleaming hardware on some undelightful chokers. Braganza s true flight path seems more considerately, sophisticatedly conservative than the tum-turrah his rhetoric suggests. He should embrace it. He s a grown-up disguised as a maverick.
