“Sweet but a little bit fucked-up.” That was Kaelen Haworth s Fall précis, so who better a muse than Twin Peaks oft-referenced teenage vamp, Audrey Horne? Call it the Lynch influence (Haworth even chose her set s red velvet backdrop based on the one used in Twin Peaks infamous Black Lodge), but this season found the Kaelen brand in quirkier spirits than usual, embracing a hefty dose of pattern-and-silhouette play, to mixed results. Per Haworth, "I wanted everything to have a purpose. There s nothing that s a real basic-basic." And it was true—you d be hard-pressed to find much in the way of Spring s cleanly sportif looks. Here was a riot of color and texture, with retro shapes to spare. The brand expanded its array of custom fabrics, including a peach-colored floral jacquard with orange chevrons printed atop—presumably a reference to Peaks namesake landmark—whipped into A-line skirts, a trench, and a tent dress. But somewhere between all the fringed tweed, moto jackets, bold stripes, and a splashy, shimmering floral jacquard, the message got muddled. The strongest propositions here were some of the simplest, and still had plenty of play to them: a ladylike tie-front shift in tropical wool, a rosy lamé frock, and a fuzzy dove-gray bodysuit and matching duster (undeniably Miss Horne).
