Pedro del Hierro Madrid designer Carmen March had a simple brief for Fall: Girls just want to have fun. She was fascinated by the huge cultural shifts her native Spain experienced in the late 70s after Franco s regime was toppled. Think women s lib, the sexual revolution, and Studio 54 s hedonism all happening in Madrid at the same time. "There was a club on every block," said March at the presentation. "And it was driven by women. It was a time of empowerment. They were independent, financially and socially."
March sought to create clothes with this liberated party spirit and in fact designed them by how they d look under a club s black light—the sheer green and purple blouses, for instance, would pop. Party clothes, these were. Day clothes…mmm. The sheer factor on some of the hand-painted velvets backed on chiffon felt flimsy next to softly structured wool and cashmere coats with a louche elegance. March freely cribbed from 70s and 80s silhouettes, and while pleated and cropped tapered pants will work on the long and lean of a leg, it s hard to imagine the silver dévoré jumpsuit with scalloped flyaway details working anywhere except a dance floor.
What almost got lost in the unbridled party scene were the leathers—lightweight and supple, done as culottes, fluid ruffled blouses, and a great puffer coat. That is what the house was built on, and it s where the real party should be.
