The Sophia Kah website includes a section called "Kah Girls," which essentially features a selection of bold-face beauties—Keira Knightley, Ruth Wilson, Florence Welch—wearing Ana Teixeira de Sousa s camera-friendly dresses. The London-based designer showed off a portfolio of her girls during a walk-through of her collection, too, suggesting her excitement over increased exposure. But really, Teixeira de Sousa s label has far broader appeal than red carpet, primarily because she has managed to develop a full collection from a few basic, risk-free principles. First, she used the idea of corsetry—in grosgrain rather than boning—to trace the torso in the most flattering way. A mere glimpse at the dresses makes you want to stand straighter; and yet, she s made sure that taut stomachs aren t a prerequisite. Second, for all the pretty fabrics—French lace, brocade, tulle—she s kept the color scheme intriguingly baroque (claret, chartreuse, teal) and edged up a few looks with leather. Third—and this is key for women who travel—the lace dresses make a big impact without taking up much space in a suitcase; the globe-trotting designer mentioned being sensitive to this concern.
When Teixeira de Sousa presented her mood board collaged with a mash-up of Italian palazzos and Marlene Dietrich images, the Sophia Kah positioning jelled: sumptuous with a certain femme fatale streak. Such focus can easily seduce, even if the line could benefit from broadening out just slightly. (And a leather jacket with lace inserts hinted that it can.) Those fingerless, lace opera gloves are being produced; they re no mere styling trick. For the meantime, they suffice as Teixeira de Sousa s sole accessory and could very well become a signature—especially if enough Kah Girls start wearing them.