Trademark just turned one; if it has a reputation yet, it s for clothes with a surprising amount of polish for the price. Good value for money. It sounds like an idea a mother could get behind. In fact, Pookie and Louisa Burch found inspiration in dear old Mom this season. Pointing out a pair of simple cropped corduroy pants and an even simpler cream crewneck sweater, Pookie said, "It looks like my mother." Mom is Susan Cole and that s her house in the lookbook photos. The other point of reference for the collection was the Garry Winogrand retrospective at MoMA last year. Something about his photographs of mid-century New York and the way people dressed back then—their offhand formality—proved compelling to them. That sensibility came across in the cotton blouses with tied-scarf necks, in a white twill pantsuit with frayed cuffs at the hem of the trousers, and in the black-and-white leopard spots (a first for Trademark) on a sleeveless sack dress. Rounding out the collection were the smart essentials that have made their six-month-old boutique a popular stop on the Soho shopping circuit. The Burches did a ribbed turtleneck bodysuit to wear with their high-waisted skirts, and they also showed stirrup pants with tasseled suede loafers. Their reputation for clever basics aside, the piece that will get the most love is a gloriously faux-fur coat. You can t make Mom happy all the time.
