Andrea Adamo opted out of the catwalk this season to present in an industrial warehouse. More akin to an artsy event than to a fashion presentation, it showcased looks sandwiched bi-dimensionally between clear plexiglass frames suspended from the ceiling; glossy AI-generated images of blown-up details were hung on walls.
Although fashion has moved on from overt body-consciousness, Adamo has stuck to his guns, and he’s still a firm proponent of an almost anatomical take on the female form. It’s not about the lacy, see-through lingerie look seen on some runways this season; his approach is sculptural and imperative, with an accent on strong shapes almost molded onto the body—more second-skin erotic armors than fragile boudoir glamour. He almost carved his slinky silhouettes from a new luscious scuba fabrication with a glazed, succulent surface matching skin tones, malleable enough to be sculpted into body-hugging tailored jackets and swingy A-line minidresses.
While staying true to his aesthetic, Adamo cleverly expanded his range, adding a daywear offer with a softer fit for those who don’t necessarily want to flaunt their curves. Roomy coats and knitwear with cut-out details, as well as wide-leg trousers, had more forgiving volumes, while still retaining a sexy undertone. “As a designer, you have to hold true to your identity,” Adamo said. “But it wouldn’t be smart not to acknowledge how women are multifaceted, how they constantly evolve. You have to evolve with them.”
