Daniel Del Core draws inspiration from nature, the wilder the better, and from his passion for adventurous journeys, the more far-flung the better—perhaps in some previous life, he was an explorer, who knows. But having reincarnated in the (rather fit) body of a fashion designer, he had to come to terms with a conundrum: how to translate his fascinating encounters with rare, almost arcane flora and fauna species into wearable and viable fashion?
The designer honed his skills under Alessandro Michele during his time at Gucci, working on couture-like red-carpet pieces; he clearly understands flamboyance and extravagance—Björk is a loyal friend, Florence Welch is a fan, Amal Clooney is partial to his most sensational frocks. Del Core is at his best when he lets his singular inspiration from fungi, lichens, and other abstruse microorganisms translate into spectacular renditions with an unsettling, sci-fi undercurrent. In today’s show, a beautiful evening dress in nude chiffon had side ruffles undulating like tendrils of an underwater creature; its matching brassiere was shaped with upward-protruding pointy breasts, inspired by the horns of the Caucasus beetle. The same curled-up thorns, recalling a sort of body morphing à la Orlan, jutted out from a Lycra catsuit, printed in sinuous iridescent curlicues “like the reflection of light on the carapace of the tiger beetle,” as Del Core explained at a preview. Similarly attractive was an hourglass-y gown dripping in silver sequins like the scales of an otherworldly fish; bulging padded hips made the dress morph into a bizarre yet inviting specimen. Letting the disquieting intrude into the beauteous is a knack Del Core should pursue more confidently; it’d give his vision focus and a sharper identity.
On the daywear front, it seemed that he still has to find his footing. He played with the idea of protective carapaces, draping heavy asymmetrical mohair capes over matching slim trousers; the image of chrysalises opening up to reveal the vulnerable creature underneath was translated onto pantsuits whose hourglass jackets were double layered under a matching zip-up corset that could peel off like shedding skin. While the inspiration had a compelling romantic undertone, the actual renditions felt slightly forced and at times not so convincing. Del Core is an original designer with a flair for unconventional beauty: He should open up the chrysalis and let his expressive, daring artistic side take flight.
