Ermanno Scervino called his fall collection Fashion Atlas, a sort of map whose cardinal points were the shapes of women’s bodies, which were mainly intended as an expression of strength. The silhouettes were strong and enhanced, such as that of the blazer in the first look that was incredibly tight at the waist (although Scervino didn’t use any constrictive internal structure, because he wanted the garments to be easy to wear). Even though sensuality was a focus of this season, one recurring element was traditional woolen menswear fabrics, such as pinstripes and herringbone. They were used for pieces like bedazzled crystal-covered outerwear and blazers in which male and female were blended.
Among the best of the collection were the shearling proposals that were fully hand-embroidered to create tricot ton sur ton motifs, shown with coordinating après-ski boots. Corsetry—one of the most recognizable Scervino touches—came in quilted light pink satin, sensual yet romantic, and a more fierce interpretation in a crocodile-effect leather that used the craftsmanship of Tuscany, an essential element for a brand so rooted in traditional handmade heritage. The artistry of craft techniques was also on display in very thin wool, used to realize enveloping bustier dresses, together with the matching and more masculine coats made of the same material but thicker. Scervino also made use of lace, both as appliqués and as intarsia elements, as well as tulle enriched with sparkling crystals.
The collection was modern and contemporary, without being dusted by a patina of nostalgia.
