The aim of the fall 2024 collection presented by Tokyo James during Milan Fashion Week was to reshape the narrative of what people may expect to see from a designer of African heritage, based on superficial preconceptions. Instead, James wanted to propose his own story, trying to go back to his roots, to more simple and clean lines, from which he moved a little too far during previous seasons, as he said backstage. Tailoring and its manipulation became central to this collection, and the choice of showcasing in Milan was mainly related to the analogy between the strictness of the Milanese aesthetic and the simplicity of the silhouettes James wanted to explore.
His African roots, seen through the globalized approach of a designer divided between London—where he was born and raised—and Lagos, were present thanks to intricate weaving, patiently hand-realized. That was used to create contrasting panels applied on the back of denim or leather trousers, or as the main material for classy monochromatic (and mono-fabric) looks, like a whole-denim ensemble. In this way, the garments could feel alive on the wearer, mainly thanks to the multifaceted textures, through which the reinterpretation of tailoring was a continuous process. There were also bouclé suits, blousons, and vests, as well as the richly decorated proposals: Denim pants, fully beaded in the front, and sumptuous gowns with low waists and delicate embroidery certainly stood out.
The designer’s desire to showcase the many talents of African creatives also led him to collaborate with Nigeria-born artist Yusuff Aina, who unveiled a piece called Domain Expansion, recalling the theme of James’s collection: the expansion that challenges prevailing stereotypes for Global South artists. That work of art was used as the epicenter around which the collection was presented.
